Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey kids,

I got a MASSIVVEEEE stack of rubber here, as you can see

I need it all gone

I dont want it

I dont need it

SO WHO WANTS IT ALL?

$500 for all this.. come and take it off me.. get your truck/ute/ trailer and take it all

4x 255/55/18 Goodyear Wrangler HP– nice even wear on all four of them, about 40% left aswell $200

4x 205/60/16 Michelin Vivacy – 50% left, all even wear $150[sOLD

4x 205/40/17 Nankang Ultra Sport NS-II – 2 have around 20% left, other 2 have 55%, even wear $150

4x 225/55/17 Bridgestone Turanza ER30 - about 25-30% left on them, all even wear $120

3x 205/55/16 Bridgestone Turanza - 50% left on all three of them $200

3x 185/55/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE040– about 50% left on him $200

3x 215/60/15 Brisgestone RE711– 50% all round, good even wear, very aggressive looking tyre $150

2x 235/40/18 Fullrun HP199 – some slight camber wear, about half way through – 50% left $150

2x 235/45/17 Nankang Ultra Sport NS-II – got some camber wear on them, about 35% left $125

2x 205/45/17 Silverstone – probably best for track events as they have some camber wear $50

2x 235/45/17 Khumo Ecsta – some camber wear on the inside $120

2x 205/40/17 Silverstone FTZ Sport– one has some camber wear and the other has about 80% $120

2x 255/55/17 Bridgestone Turanza ER30– about 40% left on it with even wear $80

2x 205/55/16 Bridgestone Turanza ER30– one has about 80-90% left and the other about 60% left $120

2x 225/50/16 Firehawk Wideoval - aggressive looking tyre, got 40-45% with even wear all round $100

2x 225/55/16 Khumo Ecsta – one of them has some camber wear, the other about 60% left on it $75

2x 195/65/14 Barum Bavavis – best for scrubbing out for track & cruise events $20

2x 185/65/14 Yokohama S220 – 20-25% left on them with all even wear $20

2x 155/65/14 Toyo J36 - one of them is worn and the other has 40%, good for burnouts $20

1x 215/35/18 Toyo Proxies F24– about 70% left on it $ 50

1X 205/45/17 Nexan N3000 – he has about 40% left on him $50

1x 215/45/17 Bridgestone Potenza RE040 about 25% left on him $45

1x 205/60/16 Bridgestone GIII– got about 45% left with even wear $50

1x 195/50/15 Potenza GIII– 45-50% left on it, great tyre with awesome performance and reviews $50

BRISBANE

PM PM PM PM PM

0420 926 501 < TEXT/SMS ONLY!!

DAN> Fs: Qld - Rubber Rubber And More Rubber

I'm after 18s 235/35 x4 and/or 245/35 x 4 - if you could send me a PM with a price, that'd be good thanks.

Edited by KustomR33
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...