Jump to content
SAU Community

What Would You Choose  

28 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys, im new to the whole skyline thing and about to purchase one... problem is, what one?

Im either going to go a R32 Gtst or a R33 Series 2 Gtst

Would would people suggest?

I know i can buy a R32 cheaper and spend the money on it... or just buy a newer car with some mild mods

or pro's and cons of either one...

Any help would be most appreciated, Thanks guys

-Griffo-

Edited by Griffo04
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187676-new-guy/
Share on other sites

im sure this topic will be pretty biased.. but here goes:

i would choose the 33 s2 simply because its newer, more powerful, bigger turbo, may have less km's, mild mods will see it with some pretty good numbers...ect ect..

realistically, you need to choose what you like, some people absolutly hate the look of 33's, while others hate 32s. regardless of that, the way i look at it, the newer more modernised updated version is ussually the winner.

of course people will argue against it, so the best influence and decision is your own.

also list some specs about both cars. i.e what year, current mods, future mods, kms, ect.. that will then make better opinions than just whats better a 32 or 33.

good luck and welcome! :bunny:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187676-new-guy/#findComment-3386591
Share on other sites

i got a series 2 r33. IMO - it looks bloody nice (specially the back), more power, more space inside, nicer interior etc. And as mentioned - minor mods can make a huge power difference to the stock version. However, the car is big (compared to the r32) - both bulky and its as long as a family sedan.

R32, is old - so there might be more problems than the r33 - but this comes down to how the previous owner used it. If it straight from japan, you probably would never know how the previous owner used it (i.e if ur buying one off a SAU member, u will have an idea as to what the car has been through).

Both are great cars on the road and track....pretty much, either one u go for, u cant lose - unless u buy a lemon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187676-new-guy/#findComment-3387204
Share on other sites

both are old, heck even R34's are getting long in the tooth,

Depends how the particular car you're looking at is kept

Personally I'd go the Series II R33, with the front lip they can look quite mean

Good luck with your purchase

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187676-new-guy/#findComment-3388151
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys, looks like the 33 S2 is the members choice, but still i guess it does come down to my own decision, i do love the style and look of a 32 but the 33 being newer and a better chance of having less problems is prolly going to be my choice.

All i have to do is find a decent one in brisbane that isnt over priced....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187676-new-guy/#findComment-3388597
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...