Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okays well i did mine a few times and got averages of

160-165 across the board 'DRY"

=s whats standard?

because the manual says BELOW

RB25DET =

Standard Value_____________________Limit Value________________ Varinace Limit Between Cyclinders

(MPa/rpm){Kg/cm2/rpm}____________(MPa/rpm){Kg/cm2/rpm}____________(MPa/rpm){Kg/cm2/rpm}

1.20/300 {12.2/300}--------------------0.9/300 {0.90/300}---------------------0.10/300 {1.0/300}

Thanks GaZZa

NOTE just found that 165PSI = 11.6cm2 and 1.137 MPA

check here @ http://www.translatorscafe.com/cafe/units-...-psi-%5Bpsi%5D/

Edited by Mr_GaZZa

The rule is along as its simlar across the board, without a large variance, its ok.

Hard to say what a 'good' result is as many things can affect it.

So basically you have no variance, so the results are fine

  • 2 months later...

Hey i bought a rb25det long motor with 150psi across all 6 cylnders, i took it to a machanic and he said its way way to low and he wont touch it but he thought its ment to be 195.

is he looking at the compression rate on a non turbo or what?

most people tell me that 150 is still good and the motor is about 80k old.

so can someone please tell me what the RB25DET is ment to be. thanks

thanks alex

rb25det come from the facor yat 172psi.......

so it depend on the condition of the motor.

150 seems fine but still low

mine s between 160 and 165 and i have dont 78k on the dash

was the engine warm when tested? if not the pistons haven't expanded and aren't sealing properly.

was it cranking with a good battery supply voltage? lower voltage = lower crank rpm = lower readings

cam belt could be out a tooth or anything to drop the reading a little. all stuff you would check before installing the engine.

sounds fine to me mate if its even across the board.

im not sure i wasnt there at the time.

also the mach was saying the error codes for my car.

he said, air flow meter, oxy sensor, oxy heat sensor, vomable timing unit and boost sensor is out. ecu said this

but they have been replaced in the past,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...