Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.I reversed my car into my garage about 3 hours ago to fix up my side skirts and install my new steering wheel and i just went to try start it and it wont kick over. Its soooo close to kicking over but it just cant get there??? any advice or things I can try as I need to get it started before tommorrow lol. Everything was running fine today and there was no indication that anything was wrong so thats why im a little confused. PS i didnt touch anything in the engine bay.

thanks in advance

Edited by FSTR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188298-car-wont-start-need-urgent-help/
Share on other sites

I took old stock steering wheel off and replaced with momo item. didnt touch any wiring except for horn wiring so I doubt i could have bumped anything. The car is getting power just doesnt kick over.

ok after further investigation I may have found the problem but dont know how to fix. under the steering wheel near the fuse box i have another small white 'NARVA' box (i assume its some kind of fuse box) when ever i try to kick the engine over the box makes a weird clicking noise. The box has 4 wires going to it although it has 5 plugs so there could be another wire that may need to be connected but i cant see any. The box is grounded to the chassis. when you remove the grounding wire the box doesnt tick anymore but it still doesnt kick over so im assuming it has something to do with this white box.

Any ideas???

that sounds like a relay... how big is it, if it is a relay it's right for it to click, and could possibly only have 4 wires... failing blown fuses u should start checking if u have fuel and spark....

neva heard the clicking noise before. its like a retarding clicking noise. like sometimes when i go to start it as it trying to kick over it makes several clicking noises in a row. how do i check fuel and spark??

easiest way to check fuel is to just disconnect a fuel line put a bucket under it, crank it for a few seconds and see if any fuel comes out... much easier and safer with 2 people... to check spark u can take out a coil pack put a spark plug in it, rest it on a bit of grounded steel, and crank it see if it has spark... or u can use a timming light normally to make sure u have ignition...

nah its definatly getting fuel as i can smell it when im trying to kick engine over. im pretty confident i have spark aswell. new plugs plus splitfires were put in last week. im thinking it has to be something to do with wiring or relay box as the car was running sweet a few hours ago.

what do you mean by flooded the engine?is that bad???
Why don't they teach this stuff when you are learning to drive?

Turning the engine over, the ECU is injecting fuel into the cylinder. The fuel is not burning because the engine is not firing. The mixture inside the cylinder is getting richer and richer - more and more fuel, same amount of air. Give it FULL THROTTLE so it gets LOTS OF AIR, and it stands a chance of starting.

ok auto elec didnt wanna touch it so im back to square one. im starting to think that its something to do with the fuel pump as it doesnt prime itself since the car hasnt been starting. I check plugs and they are fine but there is no fuel smell coming from cylinders but i definatly smelled unburnt fuel after the car was cranking last nyt. What do you guys think? anyway of knowing if its the fuel pump?

problem solved. pump wasnt priming so i thought it must have something to do with fuel as i had spark and compression. took hose off fuel rail and attatched a bottle to the hose. cranking the car and not alot of fuel came out. sat there for a minute or 2 and went to check pump wires in boot. ground wire was a little lose so i tightened it up and the pump came on and primed and spat a whole lot of fuel into the bottle (probly 500mls worth)...reattched hose to fuel rail and cranked car and it start so im thinking it was the grounding wire and possibly a blocked line...not 100% sure buts its fixed thank god

thanks for the help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...