Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.I reversed my car into my garage about 3 hours ago to fix up my side skirts and install my new steering wheel and i just went to try start it and it wont kick over. Its soooo close to kicking over but it just cant get there??? any advice or things I can try as I need to get it started before tommorrow lol. Everything was running fine today and there was no indication that anything was wrong so thats why im a little confused. PS i didnt touch anything in the engine bay.

thanks in advance

Edited by FSTR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188298-car-wont-start-need-urgent-help/
Share on other sites

I took old stock steering wheel off and replaced with momo item. didnt touch any wiring except for horn wiring so I doubt i could have bumped anything. The car is getting power just doesnt kick over.

ok after further investigation I may have found the problem but dont know how to fix. under the steering wheel near the fuse box i have another small white 'NARVA' box (i assume its some kind of fuse box) when ever i try to kick the engine over the box makes a weird clicking noise. The box has 4 wires going to it although it has 5 plugs so there could be another wire that may need to be connected but i cant see any. The box is grounded to the chassis. when you remove the grounding wire the box doesnt tick anymore but it still doesnt kick over so im assuming it has something to do with this white box.

Any ideas???

that sounds like a relay... how big is it, if it is a relay it's right for it to click, and could possibly only have 4 wires... failing blown fuses u should start checking if u have fuel and spark....

neva heard the clicking noise before. its like a retarding clicking noise. like sometimes when i go to start it as it trying to kick over it makes several clicking noises in a row. how do i check fuel and spark??

easiest way to check fuel is to just disconnect a fuel line put a bucket under it, crank it for a few seconds and see if any fuel comes out... much easier and safer with 2 people... to check spark u can take out a coil pack put a spark plug in it, rest it on a bit of grounded steel, and crank it see if it has spark... or u can use a timming light normally to make sure u have ignition...

nah its definatly getting fuel as i can smell it when im trying to kick engine over. im pretty confident i have spark aswell. new plugs plus splitfires were put in last week. im thinking it has to be something to do with wiring or relay box as the car was running sweet a few hours ago.

what do you mean by flooded the engine?is that bad???
Why don't they teach this stuff when you are learning to drive?

Turning the engine over, the ECU is injecting fuel into the cylinder. The fuel is not burning because the engine is not firing. The mixture inside the cylinder is getting richer and richer - more and more fuel, same amount of air. Give it FULL THROTTLE so it gets LOTS OF AIR, and it stands a chance of starting.

ok auto elec didnt wanna touch it so im back to square one. im starting to think that its something to do with the fuel pump as it doesnt prime itself since the car hasnt been starting. I check plugs and they are fine but there is no fuel smell coming from cylinders but i definatly smelled unburnt fuel after the car was cranking last nyt. What do you guys think? anyway of knowing if its the fuel pump?

problem solved. pump wasnt priming so i thought it must have something to do with fuel as i had spark and compression. took hose off fuel rail and attatched a bottle to the hose. cranking the car and not alot of fuel came out. sat there for a minute or 2 and went to check pump wires in boot. ground wire was a little lose so i tightened it up and the pump came on and primed and spat a whole lot of fuel into the bottle (probly 500mls worth)...reattched hose to fuel rail and cranked car and it start so im thinking it was the grounding wire and possibly a blocked line...not 100% sure buts its fixed thank god

thanks for the help guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...