Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know of a nissan parts catalog floating around on the net somewhere? Would like one just for R32 GTR's but im thinking i'll havta go down to nissan and find out part numbers for stuff. Would just like to have a look in it, see what i like... Thought I'd post this in here instead of making a thread for it, no point really..

Try a program called Nissan FAST. Do a search for it here on the forums you are bound to find a link. Be warned though, to download it you might want a DSL connection

Thanks heslo. Had a look in that thread, but didnt read far enough into it to see that it had what i was looking for haha.

might have been mentioned in the past - does anyone else think those 33 LED rear lights that i mentioned in the 'cars spotted' thread look pretty shit house? Standard rears look great as is imo!

thats why u should always go with them or at the very least take the keys to there car cant trust no one these days :P

yep, get keys and license

take down license details

always.....

when ppl have bought my motorbikes they have left their wallet with me - I tell em to drop it in the freezer, and when they come back they can see its in the same spot as when they put it there. never had a problem with buyers knowing where I live.

i don't like the registration office, i had to pay $171 for rego, BUT that included

transfer fees aswel grrr, so next time it won't be as much yay

Hope this makes you feel better.....I just paid $2500 just for stamp duty on mine, which doesn't include rego or insurance. :(

mspec33 have to agree with u on the leds but i have after market ones on my 33 dont know if u have seen pics from photo shoot but mine are clear with the reflective dome behind them and u put red globes in them they look heaps better than stock ones at night but hey everyone to there own

stamp duty is based on the total cost of the car if its a dear car you pay lots if you paid $200 for the car you pay like $20 stamp duty

oooooh, dad didn't tell me that LOL

he said that i shouldn't get charged stamp duty coz

i only paid $200, but ohwel.

insurance is only costing me $21 a month, but it's only

that cheap coz dad put it under his name, although my name

is there also.

the woman asked how old i was, i went to say 20 but stopped

and had to think b4 saying 21 :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...