Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last time I heard a squeak under the hood, in my previous car, I thought something was up thought I'd get it checked later when I can get around to it then BAM no power steering! $500 later for a replacement pump fitted....

website for nismo products, tried nismo.com.au.. Would that be it? comes up saying unique autosports.. I'll have a look around i guess..

Edit: Yeh, thats pretty much it ;)

Also the sound from my car comes from the right side of the car, above the wheel? any ideas lol

haha looks good matty u do much country driving?? they will certainly pay themselves off quickly on country roads!! :)

nicely mounted too

probably will be in the future...........hence why i got them. Got to aim them down (as i stood about 3 metres away, the main lights were hittin my knees and the spotties were aimed fair at my head).

those "light bars" are the best investment ya can make, bolts in place of the numberplate......well i tek screwed thru the bar into the reo just in case hahahaha

Looks good :) im thinking of getting a xf ute now, my ford got hit on the side today by a 4x4 with a big f**k me bull bar and spent 5hrs at flinders :bunny: the damage didnt look that bad but i got bad whiplash and spent all my time with a neck brace on. The guy that hade hit me was in a customers car and worked across the road where he hit me on Raglin ave, pulling out of castle plaza car park and didnt see me :P Iv got one witness(castle plaza security) but the flamin mongrel of it all is i hade to pay for the towing of my car to the towyard then to my place $296 and wait up to 3 months for payout its only a xf but it was so clean and my daily plus i spent $400 getting all my stereo put in.

Il post some pics when i feel better and not druged up lol

I think either too many ringies or not enough ringies caused the head to go on the corolla this week, getting the head redone, pistons looks like f*kn brand new!!! very surprised. head will be back on tomorrow and will have some furious 4k action again in no time. It's been good driving the skyline again for a few days tho....reminds me why i still got it.

Hey does anyone know an autoshop that opens on Saturdays, and i can get my rear brake pads changed?

ive rang like 20 places and no one opens on Saturdays...

seaton service centre on tapleys hill rd seaton ask for george and tell him i sent you and he should look after you 8347 3855 he has been a mate for years :D

I heard on the radio the other day... Apparently we are turning in to a bunch of metrosexual pansies as a high percentage of males know very little to nothing about their cars nor do they perform any work on them.

There was a few other things.. Owning a pink shirt was one of them.

So Aussy males are apparently becoming in touch with their feminine side. :S

My self I'm quite the opposite; old school line of thought. :D

So buy some cheap super cheap knuckle busting tools and do it yourself. :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...