Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

impressive curve there Dale

Cam gears help a lot to produce that curve.

Have a look at the thread I started on NS about playing with the cam gears.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=318617

Edited by D_Stirls

I think it's just under 4000rpm. It's a GT2871R 52T.

This graph is the GT2871R Vs' my old T28 at similar boost. This shows it's not so much about when peak boost is but more the flow at certain boost levels.

As you can see the T28 produces boost a lot earlier but even with less boost the GT2871R isn't far behind. In fact the 2871 curve is even better now, because after that run we fixed up the hole in the bottom end which was caused by the secondary butterflies opening too early for the bigger turbo.

CA18detT28VsGT2871RM.jpg

Edited by D_Stirls
i cant help but think that was a stab at me?

Lol Craig im talking stock interior vs stock interior

Ryan, i definately need some brighter lights and gripper tyres i think. The Wanli's show their limits in the hills.

I just bought some 6000k globes off 666DAN so im there with lighting, just need a bit more power and a bit more grip i think.

Just wanted to give a big thumbs up to Ricc @ Auto Perfection! :P:D:thumbsup:

Had 20% tint done on the legnum windows & alarm installed on Tuesday. Excellent job, 2nd to none customer service. Great guy and great job - very happy! :)

*note: price was also fantastic thanks to Steve's negotiating skills ;)

The 206 is a gentlemens agreement. Everyone knows that the r32 gtr, 33 gtr and 34 gtr all werent 206. Go and get your GTR dynoed then let us know :)

haha well ive got a few small things i need to do first:

buy and install imobiliser

buy and install turbo timer

buy and install new gear and handbreak leather

strip paint off front lip (return to original mat black)

also im chasing a 2wd switch!! i tried PM'ing one bloke on here who sells em but never heard back ;)

then i'll go get a check up tune and see how much she's got stock then move on from there :)

Just wanted to give a big thumbs up to Ricc @ Auto Perfection! :P:D:thumbsup:

Had 20% tint done on the legnum windows & alarm installed on Tuesday. Excellent job, 2nd to none customer service. Great guy and great job - very happy! :)

*note: price was also fantastic thanks to Steve's negotiating skills ;)

cheers for the heads up, i needa get some work done aswell

Well I just got a quote from All Type Crash, they said 300 to paint my (brand new fibreglass) front bar and $50 an hour to fit. Im hoping its going to fit pretty well and won't take longer than 2 hours. How does that quote compare with your experiences guys?

Edited by Damo_R34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...