Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just scoped out gtr 32s for sale. love how everyone claims only 80ks done on them. so the car has averaged about 300ks a month since it was bought, i have my doubts. there's also 1 on there still for sale from when i was looking for 1 3years ago.

overall though seems they holding pretty good value, im happy with my investment

also a good move, put your p plates in the window for the advertising pic, not that many will believe it has been driving like a granny but still might help sell it a bit faster.

Edited by Inline 6
just scoped out gtr 32s for sale. love how everyone claims only 80ks done on them. so the car has averaged about 300ks a month since it was bought, i have my doubts. there's also 1 on there still for sale from when i was looking for 1 3years ago.

overall though seems they holding pretty good value, im happy with my investment

also a good move, put your p plates in the window for the advertising pic, not that many will believe it has been driving like a granny but still might help sell it a bit faster.

That arguement has been had so many times.

You'd be amazed at how many of those GTR's are actual geniune K's.

Although, are you looking at GTR's in Japan or Australia?

Even when my GTR is running, I barely drive it. Between January and December last year, I did only 6,000k's. And most of those K's were from going on holidays.

That arguement has been had so many times.

You'd be amazed at how many of those GTR's are actual geniune K's.

Although, are you looking at GTR's in Japan or Australia?

Even when my GTR is running, I barely drive it. Between January and December last year, I did only 6,000k's. And most of those K's were from going on holidays.

Yeah I think I did about as much last year - catching the bus to work has its benefits...

And the cars been off the road sporadically over the last 3 months so I've been driving my old lady's Seca... FWD fun (not)

-D

Every single one though lets be realistic man, they are very commonly known for the clock winding games. r34s apparently are harder to do it to and you often see 34s with higher k's. id find it more believable if it was a small number of them but no not all of them.

i hardly drive mine as i have a daily, but i still clock up about 10k a year. driving it that little may even be doing damage unless you starting it up and taking it for a lil spin regularly.

these were in the land of aus, they often dont have original steering wheels when the clocks dodgy aswell to try and hide how messed up the leathers gone from all the driving.

but yes these arguments have been had before :(

Edited by Inline 6

Yeah I use public transport every day to get to work... I can't justify driving my GTR to work in peak hour traffic, although, it does have it's fun moments.

I'm no longer even using the R to go down to the shops like I used to, as last time I did that, I found a trolley resting against my front bar :(

Although, I do get the odd phone call from my mates at 4am, saying "can you pick me up from this party? No one here believes I have a mate that owns a GTR"

Every single one though lets be realistic man, they are very commonly known for the clock winding games. r34s apparently are harder to do it to and you often see 34s with higher k's. id find it more believable if it was a small number of them but no not all of them.

i hardly drive mine but i still clock up atleast 10k a year.

these were in the land of aus, they often dont have original steering wheels when the clocks dodgy aswell to try and hide how messed up the leathers gone from all the driving.

but yes these arguments have been had before :(

34's, even with the digital odo, are just as easy to change the K's as a regular dash!

Aussie Skylines will always have higher K's, as most of them are driven daily and long distances (eg. Cara).

Edited by CRoNic...

The 34 I looked at a while ago in a car yard ended up changing the steering wheel because I said there is NO WAY that gear stick and steering wheel have only done 64,000kms.

Kind wish i didnt say anything now. Sales scumbags.

I purchased mine at 64,000kms and it looked immaculate. Had it for around 2 years now and Im up to 109,000kms. Still looks the same.

id take a rebuilt 32 ova 1 claiming low k's me thinks.

When i got mine i didnt really pay much attention to the k's more interested in interior condition and if the steering wheel matched the rest. not crazy new like its been replaced and not hacked like its seen a few downhill races over the years.

Edited by Inline 6

you could have a skyline at 120,000k's, serviced on time every time, driven regularly but easily, and a skyline at 60,000k's, genuine, but serviced only 1 or 2 times, had a hard life. which one would you buy?

id take the high kay.

my 200 is getting close to 160,000, but you wouldnt be able to tell by looking at it, interior is immac (aside from the stereo surround), engines nice and healthy, paints still in great condish, and it has service history. win.

Edited by scandyflick

the 1 with paul walker neons and nos switch :( cause it aint how you stand by your R

tis a good point, thats why i keep all my reciepts and write down the millage on each service. accountants keep records :( and the nerd with googles drives responsbly

Edited by Inline 6

My mate's R33 he picked it up at like 80,000km last year and hasnt serviced it at all... the idiot wouldnt have a clue how to do an oil change haha - in the same time interval of him having his car I have had mine serviced twice with the best products :( had the car for a couple months shy of 2 years now and only raked in just under 20,000km in that time :(

There is one thing that will tell you if a car has genuine kms and that is the service manual. There is only one reason to remove the service book from the glovebox and that is because it doesn't match what the odo is saying.

With my 180 they removed the service manual but there were still some reciepts for some brake work done in 2000 with an odo reading of 125,000km, pity i bought the car in 2005 with 97,000kms on the clock.

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...