Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much you pay for it? i paid 2k for my pulsar and its mint with only 150k's on it.

if we talking a $100 rolla seems a bit silly your gonna spend $1000 on replacing every fluid in it. i know ppl that havnt done 1 oil change in pretty much new cars and driven for like 100k and it still seems to go. just do the basics keep it simple and replace the mofo in the unlikely event it breaks.

even if you do all that replacing it can still f up on you, old cars are old cars. last owner was prob doing key bangers in it.

Edited by Inline 6

i paid 900 for her, and the interior is mint as, needs a good clean, but overall its been looked after. and i got a mate who is a mechanic that has said he will help me do the fluid changes and timing belt etc for me for free :)

i dont think ive ever changed the oil in the magna. just topped it up every now and then. only engine failure its experienced was due to the fact that it had more mileage than most dailys on this site combined. current engine is reasonably new (only 200,000k), and itll be getting the same treatment, check dipstick every 6 months, top up as required.

you could just use the old oil from the 14 dave.

hahah, i would, but i think itd be too light for the old magna.

still be better than the slop i top it up with though. and probably good for another 15,000k...

... but it just doesnt seem right, putting motul 300v in a magna, even if it is old oil.

u do realize alot of people do that cara :) prob still better than most cheap dailys get treated.

naturally it being car ppl on here they would treat cars a bit better than most and do the full treatment on the pride n joy. but the average daily you buy from some stranger prob hasnt had an oil change since it rolled off the production line. although im sure the owner told you it did every 10,000

yeah they would tell you whatever you want to hear anyway :D i have little trust in people.

deff do an oil change, and the rest just look at how much its going to cost and dont go overboard like you do with the 34 :)

o and im not sure when uni n stuff is ending so ill come down to kadina if im not doing much but wont enter

probably doesnt have a service history. but 4ac's are worth about a 6 pack of beer, if you get it from somewhere expensive. really not worth spending mass dollars on (ie, more than a 6 pack of beer for every service).

fill it with cheap castrol oil, replace the trans fluid if you really think you have to. the only fluid id worry about is brake fluid.

yeah, 6 packs are the new yard sticks.

Edited by scandyflick

be about 60 cartons if you can find a cheapie. install will be about the same. hope youve got a van.

youre crazy dan. takes a special kind of driver to be able to properly utilise the awesomeness that is an sr20det.

Edited by scandyflick

Dan, leave the 34 out of this will ya

i just like to know wtf is going on with the car, and know what is in it. she runs well, no issues with that, brakes alright too, but would rather spend a few dollars making sure i know whats in it and basicalyl having to create my owns ervice history for her

seriously, its a daily. 2 6 packs for fresh oil, air filter, and oil filter. add another 6 pack if you wanna do plugs. if you spend more than that, well...

... it is a daily you know.

Edited by scandyflick

i heard it was short for sr20detonate :D

just saying if a car is worth something and will be in the future you look after it, if you buy a disposable car. you run it till it dies and dispose of it :)

car park here is full of disposables hence why they dont understand when i talk about the gtr

Edited by Inline 6
i heard it was short for sr20detonate :D

yeah, nissan really missed the mark with their engine coding.

ca18detonate

sr20detonate

rb20detonate

rb25detonate

and rb26dettonate, which is kinda the same, but costs 3x more to fix.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...