Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes thats the delimer im in, all cash has been thrown at home loan. preventing me from buying another car.

i need to be sensible :) there's only 1 carport at my house and thats got GTR written all over it.

its justafiable a normal person needs 3 cars right? 1 for when it rains 1 to drive to work when it dosnt rain and 1 for weekend trips :D

Edited by Inline 6

i cant get another project until i get a shed up...my mate has a datto 1200 he wont sell me until i get a shed.....now i just need my "minister of finances" to let me do it....my brother in law is a sparky , so wiring wont be a problem...i helped concrete my uncles burnout pad...so concreting wont be a problem....gotta save money everywhere....this week i have to fix a leak on my eldest's motorbike as well....it never ends

Does anyone know any cheap companies that do...

Fencing

Driveways/Concrete or Pavers

House perimiter concrete or pavers

Flooring (Tiles/Carpets etc)

I can do it through my builder but he said its cheaper not to....

do the paving and carpeting yaself is 1 option :D

That was a joke yeah?

I dont see that working out haha

I cant get the loan until I have quotes for that stuff... well thats if I get pre approved... they havn't got back to me yet...

i got my loan without qoutes for it, hmmmzzz although i had a huge deposit they prob didnt care so much cause they gonna get their cash back no matter what.

pavings not that hard i hear, you may break a nail or 2 though :D

I dont have any nails to break at the moment!

I dunno why... its a Homestart condition.

I can always get quotes and not use them, do it myself over time... if they dont check.

I dont have any nails to break at the moment!

I dunno why... its a Homestart condition.

I can always get quotes and not use them, do it myself over time... if they dont check.

I think a place like Homestart would only instruct the bank to release the funds to the company/tradesperson carrying out the work.

Penny, go to the Home Centre corner of Anzac Hwy and South Road if you can, and get some ideas on who to employ for those jobs. Even the centres that sell the materials (paving etc) will have contractors they can get to do the work. And it should be cheaper than the builder (Homestart) getting it done for you.

I'm in the middle of building my own extension. Doing all the work (99.9%) of it myself and its not easy. Paving would be a breeze in comparison. But I study construction management, so I gotta know this shit. :(

Even better for you ... stand out the front of my TAFE college and look pretty and sucker some of the studying tradies to do the work for you :D

The Design and Construction Management course has two sides: the designers/drafters (like me) and the builders (them), and we like to give them crap :D

Edited by RubyRS4

I can lend you 1 of my skirts if you need penny rofl warning may look like a tshirt but i assure u its a skirt.

might be cause yeah i amended it after i got approval, or might be the builders and lenders im through know im friends with their biggest client :D

Edited by Inline 6
I think a place like Homestart would only instruct the bank to release the funds to the company/tradesperson carrying out the work.

Penny, go to the Home Centre corner of Anzac Hwy and South Road if you can, and get some ideas on who to employ for those jobs. Even the centres that sell the materials (paving etc) will have contractors they can get to do the work. And it should be cheaper than the builder (Homestart) getting it done for you.

I'm in the middle of building my own extension. Doing all the work (99.9%) of it myself and its not easy. Paving would be a breeze in comparison. But I study construction management, so I gotta know this shit. :P

Even better for you ... stand out the front of my TAFE college and look pretty and sucker some of the studying tradies to do the work for you :D

The Design and Construction Management course has two sides: the designers/drafters (like me) and the builders (them), and we like to give them crap :(

Haha well that could work!! Where is your TAFE? Lol

I'll have to get to that Home Centre and have a look this weekend I think.

I have emailed a few places for rough quotes, one of them was more expensive then the builder!

Lucky you being able to do it all yourself, I struggled making the barbie fold and fun house. :D

I could probably build a dog kennel. Thats about it. Mind you I have never tried...

so whats the mates rates ruby :(

To design you a building in accordance with all Australian Standards and Council codes ... I wouldn't even hazard a guess for a fixed fee ... but generally $60 per hour is the norm and there are ALOT of hours involved. And thats just the designing stage.

I'm amending the drawings to my house extension every week or so. Its not as simple as drawing the house you want.

Lesson in one storey building design, so listen up ... :D

The building must be designed for the use of standard brickwork, so the dimensions of the house are determined by the brick course. Openings for windows and doors etc must also meet design consideration of brickwork. There are set dimensions for wall construction and cavities. Cut and fill for the buidling footprint on the site. AS for timber type and strength for roof loads. Council design techniques to be considered for energy efficient homes. Consideration of open space and floor area ratios. Overlooking and overshadowing issues. And so on and so forth. Thats only the tip of the iceberg. I'm designing a house in the south-east corner of the city and its a nightmare because of the narrow dimensions and Council rules!

For the most part, I mainly design road networks in dwelling in-fill areas/residential growth areas. And also site plans for extensions and redevelopments. I'm in the process of applying for an ABN and business name to do some consulting/drafting on the side.

I'd like to stick with the design side of things and leave the labour to other poor bastards :D

That sounds crazy hard. :D

They drum it into you hard enough. Things like this you need to know. Otherwise buildings fall down and people die ... pretty much.

For instance, my floors for my extension are made of timber, suspended over natural ground level. Now I need minimum 100mm clearance from ground to any timber member of the floor. If I use the narrowest timber, I could get away with meeting my existing floor level of 300mm above ground. Well I lose 100mm already from the clearance rule, so that leaves 200mm. Due to the length of my floor bearers of some 7.8m in continuous span, I need 190x45mm timber for my bearers. On top of that goes the 190x35mm floor joists. Well 100+190+190=480, which will be 180mm above my existing floor level of the existing building (not including the 22mm floor boards!). However, I can run the floor joists in single span (not continuous span) between (not on top of) the floor bearers = 100+190=290 which means it meets my current floor level. However, the single spans at (still) such a long span means I need to run them every 450mm, not 600mm to keep the 190x35 profile. Or 600mm at 190x45 profile.

So economically:

7.8m / 0.6 (600mm) = (13+1) 14 rows of joists

therefore 190x45 = 8,500 unit x 14 = 119,700

7.8m / 0.45 (450mm) = (17+1) 18 rows of joists

therefore 190x35 = 6,650 units x 18 = 119,700

Economically they will be identical in cost. So I might as well order more 190x45, rather than a bit of 190x35 and a bit of 190x45.

Lost yet??? And thats only the floor!!! I have to do this shit every week! :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...