Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the police report linked the number plate to an "unknown driver". When they called him, he denied any liability.

/insurance claim

Did your insurer keep pressing the police for followup? I'm guessing "unknown" driver means the car is registered under two names, and no one was owning up who was driving at the time?

Did your insurer keep pressing the police for followup? I'm guessing "unknown" driver means the car is registered under two names, and no one was owning up who was driving at the time?

nope, they left it in my hands to call him. thanks just car.

man that sucks :)

how much is it to fix vs your premium?

quoted around 400ish, depending on how bad it is, to have it stripped, fixed and re-painted. i paid less for the front bar when i bought it. my excess is $2550, so i told them politely that there is no way on God's green earth that ill be paying that.

nope, they left it in my hands to call him. thanks just car.

quoted around 400ish, depending on how bad it is, to have it stripped, fixed and re-painted. i paid less for the front bar when i bought it. my excess is $2550, so i told them politely that there is no way on God's green earth that ill be paying that.

fair point!lol thats exactly why i cant wait to get away from just cars!

on and off for a few months. heaps wanna sell them, do not want/need.

as i said just trade for twin turbos :) fair trade

got the day off went to the bank this morning and looking good to get a loan..... looking at getting rid of the vlt wagon and getting a GQ patrol. 4.2 diesel preferably short wheel base. anyone know of any for sale atm?

possibly, depends on the future path of the R.

moreso want to get back into having fun goin slow... = 4wd and mad scrub. wanna start heading up north again.. good cheap fun.

want a less lairy daily driver aswell (althought depends on the lift and tires oh and what turbo, turbo diesel ftw)... the vl will cost a fair bit to get up to spec again

as i said just trade for twin turbos :P fair trade

got the day off went to the bank this morning and looking good to get a loan..... looking at getting rid of the vlt wagon and getting a GQ patrol. 4.2 diesel preferably short wheel base. anyone know of any for sale atm?

can hav a look around for ya dude

here's a good source of info too: patrol4x4.com

One thing ive learnt / read, stay away from the RB30S (carby) and TB42 (injected) petrol motors, they drink juice and do headgaskets something chronic. oh, and the ZD30 3.0 GU motor too, they're nicknamed the hand grenade

craig did adam get the 33?

come to villis tongiht!

yeah he got it.. loves it!

ill see if he wants to come to villis, he got a missus now, so he's turned into a bit of an ignorant prick lol

haha adrian, HE WHIPS HIMSELF!

he didnt even drink at our engagement party coz ''he didnt wanna dissappoint kate''

i was like, wtf? you the best man your supposed to drink!

they where in bed by like 11 the assholes, so yeah,

he revolves his life round her now which = MEGA FAILS YO'

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...