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ryan, my PFC doesnt display boost :thumbsup:

simon said thats not avail. on the rb25 version :)

as cubes said, cheap map sensor will sort that out, i bought the proper adapter.

yeah +1.

Also important to note the ramp rate the tuner is using......Shoot Out Mode (200) is a waste of time for the street, should be 150 or it will definitely run in different areas of the map (detonation city) on the bitumen and up hills.

definetly pete, 150 is our default ramp rate. depending on the style of power delivery but yea mainly 150. We sometimes lower it for just 1 run to really load it up to simulate going up a hill just to be safe.

just had Ryan n the guys at AUSSIE DYNO N TUNE tune my car today had a few issues with wheelspin but after putting ryan in the boot gave it a few runs and pulled a constant 300rwkw then on the last run pulled 327.4rwkw on only 19psi with only 18 knock level!!!!!

great guys down there fully reccomend them 2 any1!!

great talking 2 u Ryan top bloke, ill be back there with sum softer tyres n maybe biggr injectors so we can screw sum more boost in2 it maybe.....

http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=...ideoid=41815405

Thanks mate, I was very impressed with your car, a very nice set up you have. Very jealous. Only more motivation to buy more shit for mine lol. Thanks for coming down! Good talking to ya!

Edited by Ryanrb25
definetly pete, 150 is our default ramp rate. depending on the style of power delivery but yea mainly 150. We sometimes lower it for just 1 run to really load it up to simulate going up a hill just to be safe.

hmmm, I might have it the wrong way around Ryan.

Is there more load (or brake on the rollers) at RR:020 (20kph/s) or RR:015 (15kph/s)

The higher the ramp rate the less load the rollers place on the car.

Then there's start speed, release time, end speed. Basically there is a whole lot of different combinations you can chop and change to suit the car and what sorta load you want to place on it. If a car is placed under light load but does a full power run, The true AFR reading will be false to a certain point as with power output.

hope that made sense lol.

Edited by Ryanrb25

yea sorry i didn't answer your question... rr:020 is a higher ramp rate therefore giving less load on the car...will show a slight increase in power. At the end of the day its just a figure. The dyno is purely a tuning tool. Unless your simulating near bang on road conditions then AFR's and power will not be accurate.

Edited by Ryanrb25

You were bang on the money pete. :thumbsup:

If for some reason you do need to tune with a higher ramp rate, eg. Wheel spin etc.. then a bit more care has to be taken with the tune and must be alot more concervative. So many other factors come into play.

Edited by Ryanrb25

yeah, I know Donan has changed his methods a bit over the years.

These days he tends to keep the AFR's on the lean side (around 12:1) but pulls extra timing out to compensate, up to 3 degrees (from around 20 to 17).

That's why I'm keen to get those adjustable cam gears happening at some stage so I can play with the valve timing a smidge as compensation for lost ignition timing.

One thing I like (and contemplating) about a decent set of cams is that they would dial out some compression due to the extra overlap and therefore allow me to keep my ignition timing up.

Anyone know someone selling a car for under/about $2500 with enough room for putting a wheel chair in the back ... like a wagon or R31, something with a big boot. Must be auto also :thumbsup:

just thought id post this,

fellow bmxer Matt Duncan lost his life in a car crash early this morning in Stirling North, just out of Pt Augusta.

i got the chance to ride with him a few times, and he was a shredder, always killing it at whatever he wanted to do.

RIP.

took off my brakes today. Fronts are only 2pot and rear is 1 pot. :)

Brembos have arrived tho :) awesome condition, but the bolt sizes are different :(

Just have to get some braided lines and get them slotted.

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