Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am fairly new to this TIG welding so my apologies for the rubbish terminology, but I am trying to weld a subframe which is 2mm mild steel to a 3mm thick plate on the back of my clubman and it is going well for the most part, but there is a section thet is a T intersection where the weld puddle is bubbling, and the bubbles are going through the weld. I have tried grinding away all the bad weld and cleaning it with the wire wheels, resharpening the tungsten and trying again, but it happend again! it is happening over about 2inches and either side I can weld ok, I am using a pretty simple welder set at about 100amps. Any ideas how to clean that weld off and get it welded properly? thnaks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188613-advice-needed-with-tig/
Share on other sites

are you wiping the material down with anything first?

i have used metho, and allowed alot of flash time. but i found acetone works better with lower flashing time between cleaning it and welding.

What gas are you using also?

Whoops, got busted indoors and immediatly handed a vaccum cleaner :nyaanyaa:

I say 100A but I do admit it is a pretty cheap setup, so its probably imperial amps, but I am usually getting a nice clean weld, but this one is like when you blow bubbles in milk through a straw (on reflection a picture would be handy) not spitting tho,

I have not tried cleaning it, I will grind & clean it out again and have a go with some metho I have handy. Using pure argon.

Leads are set up ok, and 1.6mm tungsten, most of the space frame is 1.5mm rhs, I have done some welding with the 2-3mm plate which has come up ok, its just over about 5cm :yucky:

Thanks guys

I have been setting it on about 6-7 **cant remember the measurement** - might need a little more? - Actually come to think of it, there is a bit of a gap, and I can hear it whistle in the gap, might be worth cranking it up a but eh'

6 will be fine. i tig weld pretty much all day anything from as small as 1mm up to plate as thick as 15mm and use a flow rate of around 8 L/m to 5 l/m.

amps are the same not mater where you are in the world. no such thing as imperial amps. they are all the same. and for that size plate i wouldn't go over 60. you don't happen to know the duty cycle of the welder?

whats on the back of what you are welding? and any rust in that area?

Sorry, I probably should have put in a smiley with the imperial amps comment, I just thought it was that rediculous that it wouldnt be taken seriously - I was just taking the piss out of my rubbish chinese copy welder*, what I should say is at the 100 mark I get a nice weld pool on both surfaces, the 60 mark does not even make a dent

there might be a little bit of surface rust, cant quite remember - although I dont really want to take it all off - last resort! it took ages to get lined up and I have already taken apart the jig :yes: I think the duty cycle is about 60% but I could be wrong (and I might have completely the wrong figure)

* To answer the "you should have bought a decent welder" question; I would love to throw a bunch of money at this project, but that is just not an option at the moment - Its most important job is keeping me sane, which it has been doing quite well for cheap gear :)

Update: I got it! grided out the rubbish weld, wire wheel, metho, upped the gas flow and bam! nice clean weld :D Thanks for your help guys

Edited by Medium Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...