Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think they are open anymore, or atleast not doing that well... I havent seen them down BWCP in about 18months either.

hey josh ttr are great company :closedeyes::spam: (joke)

remember when a certian person was telling u and your dad that it was fine to run a td06 on a rb25 with stock injectors and i said other wise and what happened to the motor after it ran down willowbank ?????

but meah sooo long ago and the memorys i have of that place

but to the guy that want to do this conversion theres plenty of sau members that will offer and hand to to the job some will offer great advice also if u want to learn about your car this is a great way to find out

Can help with the wiring. I have done a few now. Excellent conversion, I even did one for my fathers R32 at the start of this year. He loves it!

I have personally done 2 now and have done them over a weekend with a hand from my bro-in-laws.

Cheers

I've heard nothing but good comments about this man, however make sure he leaves the brother-in-law at home :closedeyes:

i have done a few of these conversions now.

if your after a harness, give me the RB20 engine loom, and the RB25 loom and $350 and you'll have yourself a complete wiring loom that plugs stright on. if you have an R33 microtech, is it plug and play? If so, then as i stated above will be the way to go.

As for the motor, it will bolt stright onto your crossmember, however, as stated earlier in this thread, you will need a modified gearbox crossmember.

I can also do your tailshaft, as mentioned by showbag on the 1st page, i do tailshafts for a living, and trust me, you dont want to do any dodgey stuff in this department. I can build you a complete 1 piece tailshaft, brand new that will cop 350rwkw for $450. I use billet slip yoke and high tensile steel tube.

If you need intercooler pipe modification i can also help in this department, as with the exhaust, but the RB20 exhaust will bolt strauight up if both your RB20 and RB25 have standard turbos.

PM me if you need anymore info, i'll be glad to help.

Edited by blv

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...