Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 series 1, M-spec.

It has a top mount Garrett GT3040R turbo, 45mm Turbonetics external Race gate, Apexi pod filter, speed & boost limiter removed,

Fmic, heavy duty clutch & lighten flywheel, Apexi FC, 17's, momo steering wheel, timer, guages, upgraded brake pads with cross drilled rotors... modified intake manifold, adjustable castor bushes, adjustable rear camber bushes, pineapples.. Factory sun roof,

big stickers! 4 inch exhaust from the turbo to the cat, 3 inch cat back. the cannon has a silencer as well. remote lock, immobiliser..

I have onwed the car for 6 years. It has been fun, but my wife is very keen to extend our family, so i am looking to get a wagon for her. Yes, i will be buying another imported turbo'ed car, but sadly the R33 just will not be big enough..

I have spent lots of time sorting the car out, it handles very well, has lots of grip and is a fairly well rounded car. I have not managed to put it down the quater mile or onto a circuit.. but i want to! It has only ever been really driven on the skid pan.. those who have been to a skid day with me will telll you how i treat it..

$16 000

here is the car in action early last year.

Edited by psi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188759-r33-gts-t-series-1-m-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

if you had those bits in a stagea, i would trade! My family is growing, so I need to sell the toy.

I want a stagea.. that way i can keep all the other bits of been wanting to put onto the 33 and put them into a more family kind a car.. like a stagea!

sorry.

your GTR does look good, and i would have traded u 3 months ago! lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...