Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Just ordered some brand spankin new coilovers which should be arriving soon. Just wondering if there is anything that you would recommend that I change at the same time while im playing around there. The car is getting a bit old now (94 R33 GTST) and i know for a fact that the steering rack is leaking, but is there anything like bushes that would be a good idea to change as well while im there? My castor rod bushes look shot, i think ill do them for sure

Cheers,

Damo

just do anything that looks shot.

castor rods already mentioned, maybe rack boots, maybe tie rod ends or tie rods. I'd probably replace the rubber bushes on the end of the swaybar link with polyurethane ones. You can really go overboard if you want and swap just about everything.

Guys,

Just ordered some brand spankin new coilovers which should be arriving soon. Just wondering if there is anything that you would recommend that I change at the same time while im playing around there. The car is getting a bit old now (94 R33 GTST) and i know for a fact that the steering rack is leaking, but is there anything like bushes that would be a good idea to change as well while im there? My castor rod bushes look shot, i think ill do them for sure

Cheers,

Damo

I reckon a rear camber kit for sure. they are around $150. definatley cast rod bushes - go to nolathyne. just check your rear sub frame bushes too. a cheap up grade for these if they are stuffed is solid ones - around $100

hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...