Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a used 3000km old Tomei fuel pump for my r32gtst.

Looking at the Tomei site it appears to be the correct one, part no. 183001 but this part no. isn't on the pump.

I was a bit surprised to see the Nissan emblem on it even though I didn't really expect to see Tomei on it.

post-13288-1192264845_thumb.jpgpost-13288-1192265117_thumb.jpgpost-13288-1192265280_thumb.jpg

It's marked Unisia Jecs A42-621B70

I found a pic of a bnr32/Z32 fuelpump and I can actually make out the same model no. on it.

The R32gtst Nismo pump is the same also.

It seems as though they are all the same pump so I don't care if mine actually came from Tomei or not.

My only concern is how it fits up.

The Tomei kit doesn't come with the clamp or extra regulator thingy that can be seen in the first pic but they were there in the bnr32/Z32 pics.

Are they needed for the r32gtst?

The Tomei kit comes with a spacer and cushion and I did not get these with my pump.

Do I need them for a drop in fit?

Can someone please shed some light on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189139-tomei-hcr32-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Another thing that puzzles me is if the tomei gtst pump is the same pump as a std gtr how come they rate the tomei gtst pump at 248L/hr and rate the std gtr pump as 195L/hr?

r32 gtst tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-niss...yline-r32-gts-t

r32 gtr tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

Maybe they just look the same.

Does anyone know the model no. from the tomei r32 gtst pump for certain?

i have bought a few TOMEI pumps over the years and have one in our current S13/26 and it definately came with reg/damper and all associated mounting hardware.

I'm now pretty sure my pump didn't come from a tomei kit.

From the gtst nengun link in my last post it appears the tomei kit doesn't contain the regulator/damper thingy that came with the pump I bought. (Check pic in first post)

Tomei obviously don't think it's needed.

What does it do?

My pump didn't come with the cushion and spacer seen in the tomei kit.

I've ordered the cushion from Nissan as a genuine gtr part.

I think the spacer is made by tomei as a gtst adapter so I guess I'll have to make my own.

  • 3 weeks later...

Given that all evidence points to the r32gtr pump and the tomei gtst pump being identical why are they rated differently?

Another thing that puzzles me is if the tomei gtst pump is the same pump as a std gtr how come they rate the tomei gtst pump at 248L/hr and rate the std gtr pump as 195L/hr?

r32 gtst tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-niss...yline-r32-gts-t

r32 gtr tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

Maybe they just look the same.

Does anyone know the model no. from the tomei r32 gtst pump for certain?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...