Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an RB25DE Mines ECU for sale, that i havnt found the limiter on yet (well past 7500..)

It seems to have slightly leaner mixes and HEAPS more timing (esp down low)

selling because im saving for a pfc

If you want your car to rev, your gonna need the right cams to take you that far, valve springs - meh, i havnt had any problem with mine, you'd more want to worry about the bottom end taking it

BEE*R REV LIMITER FTW!!!

all that does is hold your revs at a lower level than the factory limiter... granted it keeps the fuel going and cuts the ignition, but all that does is make popping noises, increase exhaust temps, melt cats and in general reduce the life of your engine. oh and it shoots flames. meh.

Stupid question but what exactly is the correct process of short shfting?.. I heard so many different interpretations of this I need to clear this up..

My context for short shifting is to change gear before you hit the cutout. I think that's the common understanding.

I get the feeling your confusion is over "flat changing", which some people interpret as being clutchless and others consider to be "not lifting off the throttle".

Cheers scathing!

I heard both versions of flat changing.. and I believe the clutch is there for a reason.. use it..

I will occasionally change without lifting off gass, but you need a clutch if you want a gear box.. Unless theres a half mechanically decent way of flat changing without using the clutch. Ideas?

I heard this version of "short shifting" too.. kind of ironic though.. short?.. fuel cut?.. meh..

Short shifting isn't necessarily shifting before the limiter, but more shifting before the ideal point - for example shifting at 5800rpm when your peak power is at 6000rpm, or even shifting at 6200rpm when your still holding your peak power (because you'll shift into lower power, so your missing out).

The best way to shift perfectly, is you dyno your car, and figure the rpm where the power drops off (after peak power) vs the power your shifting into, for example, my car drops off about 10kw by limiter (currently using standard 25DET ECU) shifting then puts me right back into high revs and about the same power. If i was to shift right on peak power, i would be shifting back say ~ 30kw.

i.e. my old power (havnt dyno'd since yet) power peaked at 6000rpm and dropped to ~ 140 by limiter, at 5000rpm it was also at 140 and peak torque, so revving to limiter and shifting into peak torque is alot better than shifting at peak power back to ~ 4000rpm and building it all up again

That said, if i want to feel the power and have a bit of fun, i shift right on peak power, because all my gain is from 4000-6000, so thats where it rips you back and where all the fun is at.

These days though, keeps making power till limiter, without limiter i couldn't feel any drop off but fear of popping it made my safc dump fuel 7000rpm = flames flames flames and no ignition cut :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...