Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to buy a 93 or 94 GTR, may consider an earlier model if the right one presents itself.

First colour choice is White or Silver but I will consider Grey as a second choice.

If you have;

a straight car (this excludes tape job resprays, uneven panel gaps, crapped out body rubbers, rusting rails, etc...)

with healthy engine (I will be doing a compression and leakdown before purchase)

I'm looking to buy your car!

I have recently missed out on a string of vehicles that have been snapped up, so I'm getting frustrated!

I have money and am ready to buy, considering the current market for imports I'm looking to spend ~18k but might spend more for the right car.

send me a pm or reply to this topic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189462-looking-to-buy-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

dont knwo ur chances to find a good car for 18k....

if your interested I have a tidy 90 model, plenty of mods, bigger turbos, from only 10psi 250awkw and 14psi 280awkw...

$22k

pm if interested

Well, I'm hoping to find one at close to that price... but I can always pay more for a top notch car. $18k is my target!

Thanks for the offer mate, but didn't you just buy that car from Hanyou? Why selling so quick and why upping the asking price by $3k?

yes i have bought it in the last few months....but i have just decided to get married so the car must go.

reason for the price rise is that I have just spent about 4k on it, pfc, cam gears, new radiator and all piping, brake upgrade.

$18K target probably explains why you are missing out on a few GTR's mate.

Immaculate 32 GTR's in bog stock form or even with a few mods will fetch much more than that - at least 22K.

Good luck in the search anyway - you never know.

The price is not the reason I'm missing out... :laugh:

The cars I've missed were already sold when I arrived to look at them.

Further, please re-read my first post, I'm not looking for an 'immaculate' car. Just an original one that hasn't been stacked or bodged up.

I've seen several cars that fit the description, including price, but they were not the colour I am after (including a straight and genuine V-spec II in the low 20s).

Please only post if you have or know of a car, don't waste my time posting opinions.

As I said, $18k is my target. Not my limit! A seller never heads out asking their minimum price, why would I!

I've seen several cars that fit the description, including price, but they were not the colour I am after (including a straight and genuine V-spec II in the low 20s).

lol at you for not buying it then!!! a good clean 32 gtr sounds like its out of your price range... ive seen one running gtr that was not registered or road worthy and looked like shit for 18k everything else has been over 20

  • 1 month later...

how are you mate, i got a immaculate r32 gtr, probably one of the best gtr going around, its a 89 but cleaner den all of the gtr ive ever seen out there, its got alot done to it, im after $27,500 but better if you go see my thread,

cheers mate

I have purchased a car... not a GTR (still a Skyline but more of a thrash box)

At this point I'm not looking anymore but may have another crack at it next year when I find more patience.

Unfortunately looking for GTR's is too painstaking! After looking at ~25 cars, I ended up buying the first non GTR Skyline I looked at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...