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Hey guys n gurls,

Ive got myself a blitz SBC i-d III and struggling to get it to work correctly, ive wasted $50 in fuel trying to get it to boost over 9psi!!

Ive got no idea why it is not boosting to a 10psi level which ive consistantly set it for?! It ussually hits 7.6psi - 7.8psi then if I turn off the controller it hits a nice 8.9psi by itself!! Im so very confused why this is happening??

Was I meant to remove anything to let it boost higher than stock?

If anyone can help out would be greatly appreciated! Yes ive checked for leaks, and yes the boost lines are designed for boost and not stretching a great deal under presure?!

Help me!! Thanks.

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Have you got it on Auto or Manual mode?

Try moving the gain up a little, I think standard it is 5, it can go a lot higher, but it is sensitive, move by 2 at a time. If it doesn't change anything by 10 then I'd look at your plumbing. Try using manual and setting the gain to 8 - 10 then moving the level or whatever it's called up to 60 or 65. Only move in small steps.

I trust you have completely removed the plumbing from the original boost controller?

I use Manual. Setting = Level 60, gain = 6.

Auto set to 10psi, usually boosts to 9.8 or so, but not as quickly as manual mode.

intake is colder when your car is hence why it boosts harder.

Even in auto set at about 12psi the stupid thing wont boost past 9psi.

I will give the manual setting a go again, however I can reach 9psi with a setting of 7 Gain and 17ratio, go figure?!

I think it must be the length of my plumbing, its mounted in my air box (solanoid that is) so I guess the trail back to the controller is a lil far but I didnt think it would cause it a problem?!

May I add it only hits 9psi on top speed run 140km/h for eg.. and 8.9 turned off just in 1-2-3rd? to about 80km/h??

Edited by DECIM8

My stock boost sensor was still connected, when I removed it then engine light came on like its meant to when you install these little buggers, perhaps this was skipped?? because we were expecting it to light up :S

Will it be ok with the sensor removed? gauges still work which is found interesting.

Edited by DECIM8

Firstly I have an R33.

I already had a manual bleed valve fitted which was not plumbed into my factory boost controller. So although the solenoid id still electronically connected it is not plumbed into any piping. My twin solenoids from Blitz are mounted on the strut tower next to the factory one using one of those bolts on that bracket. Then it uses the stock plumbing points (R34 intercooler) for the solenoid, with the one going to the original blocked off.

The boost on the dash on the R33 is read from the back of the plenum to a electronic boost sensor near the brake cylinder. So it will read even when the solenoid is disconnected.

My idea is to raise the ratio to 40 or 50, with gain at 6 or 7.

Using manual .. I pull hardest for some strange reason when im setting it at about 17 ratio and 6-7 gain which I find rather strange for people pulling a good 60ratio like above!!

Its just not working for me .. its like the stock system is still running .. maybe its been installed incorrectly.

Using manual .. I pull hardest for some strange reason when im setting it at about 17 ratio and 6-7 gain which I find rather strange for people pulling a good 60ratio like above!!

Its just not working for me .. its like the stock system is still running .. maybe its been installed incorrectly.

hmm, that doesnt sound right i run around 60/70 ratio for 16psi but i am running a largeish aftermarket turbo. also the more gain you use the quicker/harder the boost will come in but the more likly it is to spike

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I worked it out mate, the wire had been frayed snapped by the last asshole who sold it to me (G.A Garage) dont buy anything from him btw.. fixed and now boosting hard...

Thanks for all the help

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