Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know this is a bit random but i have been asked how much i would sell the rolling shell of my car for, and frankly i have no idea what they are worth so if anyone could give me an idea that would be great!

Thanks in advance.

Details - All the parts are brand new, never driven on.

- Full respray in House of Kolor Planet Green (Imported from US)

- Body Kit is 400R, Front bar has been customised.

- Body kit has been completely molded to the car not including the front bar

- Door handles and antenna both shaved (I also have remote popper kit for the doors)

- Guards (Under guards where wheels sit) have been completely polished back and re-coated lightly with black sound deadener (To make it look new)

- Under body of car has been cleaned and re-coated lightly with sound deadener (To make it look new)

- Carbon Fibre Bonnet

- M3 Mirrors (Electric)

- Shaved indicators from front guard

- Stealth / Drift spoiler molded onto boot lid

Suspension -

- HSD Systems Coil Overs (HR - Good ones)

- EBC Greenstuff Pads

- DBA Slotted Rotors

- All Arms / Sub Frame etc powder coated in silver

- All Bush's and rubbers replaced with polyurethane whiteline items

- Camber Kits both sides

- Whiteline rear Sway Bar

- Cusco front sway bar

- Rear Subframe alignment kit

- All Bolts electroplated chrome

- Driveshaft bolts replaced

- HICAS Lock Kit (Tomei electric type)

Thats about all its got from memory, pics of the shell can be found in my add here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...23#entry3408823

Edited by Got Boost?

that looks way to nice to sell man.... i'd have no idea how much it would be worth... but a good idea would be to work out how much you would want for your engine (evan if your not selling it) then minus it from your $35k... i say it would sell pretty easy....

Good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...