Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by bbenny

hey price is about $19.50ea

I dont know what u should gap them too. i know for turbo RB engines its 0.8mm but on the packet the iridiums say not to change the gap because the tips are very fine and fragile.

I gapped them to 0.8 anyway and they have been pretty good.

By gapping expensive iridium spark plugs, as far as i know, voids the purpose of getting expensive iridium spark plugs, as what you pay for is the coating, which is removed when you gap them.

I may be wrong....

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i gaped them by tapping the top of the bent curve without fitting anything in between just to make sure no surfaces were scratched, so there was no chance of the coating being removed. i then just used a feeler guage to check gap distance.

Worked perfect, much better than the platinums. so im sure its not a problem as long as you are careful.

Iridiums are gapped at 1.1 by default. I am using them at 1 bar boost and have absolutely no problems, the mixture is perfect and there are no flat spots or anything, so I'm not sure why you'd need to regap them when running any normal sort of boost. Maybe with even higher boost you might need to gap them a bit smaller, I don't know.

Ths only platinums I've used are the old ones that were in the car when I got it, so I can't really say if the Iridiums are "better". But everyone seems to need to re-gap their platinums, so for not having to re-gap the iridiums makes them seem worth the extra couple of bucks to me. Not for the time/effort saved, but the fact that you can have a more universal gap (ie just forget about it).

  • 1 month later...

akeenan: in your great wisdom, can you tell my why my NGK coppers melted? I think that Coppers are only asking for trouble after the latest stint..... All of the plugs were stuffed (the little finger was melted off ever single one). I think after that I can justify the price of iridiums

Sumo

I have to correct myself about the Iridiums gap too. I'd been told that it was 1.1mm. I decided to expierment with changing the gap awhile ago to help eliminate flat spots. I pulled the first plug out and checked the gap, and it was 0.7mm. Oh well, nothing more to do there :)

the only ngk plugs specified for a r33 gtr are platinum or iridium no copper ( i'm sure u can find copper though but wouldnt last )and the diff in price is only $2 , iridiums last a bit longer , i dont know that they are any better though .

akeenan: in your great wisdom, can you tell my why my NGK coppers melted? I think that Coppers are only asking for trouble after the latest stint..... All of the plugs were stuffed (the little finger was melted off ever single one). I think after that I can justify the price of iridiums  

Sumo

no i cannot tell you why they melted. sorry..

Running lean or detonation is the main cause of plugs melting isn't it? If so, maybe copper plugs would serve as a good warning device. Better a melted plug than a melted piston!

I am under the impression that the new technology plugs come set at the right gap for the application. Correct me if I'm wrong, but setting the gap in sparkplugs was dome in the low-tech days when the electrode wore away much more than it does with electronic controlled ingnition systems.

what heat range would be best for RB25DET? I was told heat range 6 is good, but some ppl here uses heat range 7??

At what boost level you should use 6 and 7?

And someone also told me the suitable gaps is 0.8mm ?

using platinum or iridum they can have a very fine tip witch produces a better spark . u can have a fine tip with standard nickel but the life expectancy would be very short thats the reason the nickel tips are much bigger ( longer life )the platinum on the tip doesnt burn as easy so it lasts much longerand iridium longer still ( they claim iridium give a better spark as well .

i wouldnt use nickel on any of my cars , i only use platinum but next time i'll try iridium as they are only $2 more .

there are 2 types of iridium ngk sparkies....

the difference is in the centre electrode (tip) size.. 0.8mm and 0.6mm.

0.8 is the same size as plats so they are only better by lasting longer.

0.6mm one has better spark and uses less voltage but only lasts same distance as the platinum ones. also when you order em make sure u tell em to get the model without the -11 at end cause then they will come gapped to .8mm not sure the code for the RB's. you dont want to gap them the traditional way cause you might scratch off the iri coating which defies the getting em in first place!

i used to use the v-groove copper ones but with the iridium's engine does feel smoother and seems to hold boost better.

just put platinums in mine and noticed a slight improvement. dont know if the iridium ones would make much difference. a few guys i know have said that they didnt notice any difference between platinums and iridiums. they will probably just last longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...