Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, recently received a major defect which requires a RWC, however I just got a RWC 1-2 weeks ago, hence it is still valid.

If I just take the RWC cert into vicroads will they let me clear the defect? Or does the RWC have to be obtained after the date of defect?

Cheers, bry

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190302-defected-with-a-valid-rwc/
Share on other sites

Assuming that the RWC is still valid (i think they are valid for 30 days but could be wrong) then take it together with the defect notice to whoever issued you the RWC.

They need to determine if the items listed on the defect notice were covered by the original RWC and were not overlooked.

If they were overlooked then those items need to be fixed, if the RWC issuer feels that they were covered then you can go to Vic Roads and show them your RWC.

Note: you are doing the issuer of the RWC a favour by doing this b/c if you went to Vic Roads and just showed them the RWC and the items listed on the defect notice were in fact overlooked on the RWC, then the mechanic/workshop could be investigated (esp if there have been other instances like this by this workshop) and could potentially lose their RWC licence.

So it is in the best interest of the RWC workshop to fix any items at little or no expense to you given that they overlooked this in the first place and have inconvenienced you now and b/c you are doing them a favour by not going straight to Vic Roads.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...