Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have working eyes and hands and can read english, you can fix the AFM issue for yourself.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...p;hl=SOLDER+AFM

It'll cost you time and a about $30 for soldering iron and solder and sealant (if you don't already have any of those.)

there are pics and stright forward instrucitons of what to do.

anyone who buys a skyline should do a handful of things as part of the first service I think.

1.) new copper spark plugs gapged at 0.8mm

2.) tape up coil packs with good electrical tape (or buy that silicon shit for a bit more money)

3.) Clean AAC valve.

4.) Clean AFM

5.) Re-solder AFM internal points

6.) new nissan paper ai filter element for stock air box

these along with new oil and oil filter, new fuel filter, will see a brand new car in most instances... especially if you've just bought a stock or near stock skyline which is 10-19 years old.

it will cost you bugger all in the grand scheme of things and will probably solve many little bullshit issues these cars have.

Mate,

I have a few questions and please excuse the fact that I am so newby to all this...

1. After step 3... do I apply solder lead on that joints or what do I do... I don't understand?

2. Also, how do I reseal everything?

If you or anyone else can provide additional pictures, this would be much appreciated.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

iv'e had both of the problems said here and first it's ur air flow meter that is stuffed grab a mates takes 10mins try it or try just jap(mine cost me $140),secondly if ur car is stalling only while in idle or very low revs change spark plugs.........

Edited by mjones
iv'e had both of the problems said here and first it's ur air flow meter that is stuffed grab a mates takes 10mins try it or try just jap(mine cost me $140),secondly if ur car is stalling only while in idle or very low revs change spark plugs.........

Thanks mate...at least I know what the symptoms are now... I'll ask my mechanic to fix all this!

So hopefully it will be fixed... man, just more shit!! ;)

An update fellas... I think it's definitely my AFM - I will get it cleaned out and resoldered this weekend and will let everyone know the result... never new this AFM problem is so common.

  • 3 weeks later...

guys i just changed my engine oil to motul 4100 with rating of 15w50. After that the car feels more quiet but the problem is i normally warm up the engine about 5 minutes before driving but it has the tendacy of stalling and i noticed that the fuel pressure from the dash is kinda low:it will only stall if meter is pointing at 2. If its between 3 and 4 its fine.The normal level of oil pressure would be between 3-4 right?(during idle)

Just an update - it was the atmospheric HKS BOV .... I got a stock R33 GTR one and it works fine now as it's all plumbed back to the intake pipe.

However, I really miss the Ppsshhhh sound and am thinking getting a 50/50 BOV to avoid the stalling issues whilst getting the nice sound and engine response.... tell me what you think...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MARS-MP-TX001-UNIVE...oQQcmdZViewItem

I think even with the 50/50 atmo/pb you will still get stalling issues, also the running rich issue. Update your ECU and then get an atmo :laugh:

My car came from Japan with a SSQV that is clearly plumbed back but still gives off the whoosh sound and it runs beautifully, never had a problem

maybe I'm just lucky? :)

My car came from Japan with a SSQV that is clearly plumbed back but still gives off the whoosh sound and it runs beautifully, never had a problem

maybe I'm just lucky? :)

Yeah, it's plumbed back... care to show how they managed to plumb it back - pic of the engine bay would be good?

The SSQV makes a very nice sound...

I think even with the 50/50 atmo/pb you will still get stalling issues, also the running rich issue. Update your ECU and then get an atmo :)

Yeah, if all things fail - I might bring the HKS SSQV into a tuner and get them to tune my car with the BOV.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...