Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 series 1, M-spec.

It has a top mount Garrett GT3040R turbo

45mm Turbonetics external Race gate

Apexi pod filter

speed & boost limiter removed

Fmic

heavy duty clutch & lighten flywheel

Apexi FC

17's-255's on the back

momo steering wheel

timer

guages

upgraded brake pads with cross drilled rotors

modified intake manifold

adjustable castor bushes

adjustable rear camber bushes

pineapples

Factory sun roof

big stickers!

4 inch exhaust from the turbo to the cat, 3 inch cat back. the cannon has a silencer as well.

remote lock, immobiliser

Remote oil filter for the turbo.. (thats a LONG story!)

Fire exstinguisher

Battery isolater switch

I have onwed the car for 6 years. It has been fun, but my wife is very keen to extend our family, so i am looking to get a wagon for her. Yes, i will be buying another imported turbo'ed car, but sadly the R33 just will not be big enough..

I have spent lots of time sorting the car out, it handles very well, has lots of grip and is a fairly well rounded car. I have not managed to put it down the quater mile or onto a circuit.. but i want to! It has only ever been really driven on the skid pan.. those who have been to a skid day with me will telll you how i treat it..

Other than that, it is a true daily driver. I really do drive it to work EVERYDAY, cos i'm lazy and refuse to walk!

$16 000

here is the car in action early last year. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=327VTZhDojo

Edited by psi
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191262-r33-series-1-m-spec/
Share on other sites

not yet. My freind and i only did a street tune on it.

I am planning to get a better tune at Christmas time, it will probably end up just a fine tune.

it does actually go quite hard. my mates 290hp vl couldn't keep up..

If i sell it before then, it will get a tune before i hand it over.

Most GTR's on the time trial on the skid days i run struggle to keep its pace..

that help?

ok already.. stop with the PM's about the switch on the oil line..

its an oil pressure switch for a safe guard to make sure there is always oil there!

I had an oil line burst once..

it fried my old turbo and the engine bled itself dry! Cost me a new engine and turbo!

it beeps it head off if there is less than 7 psi pressure.. like if u stall it!

satisfied?



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...