Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, im looking at buying a new afm,

so..yeah pretty much...what should i get?

ive bein hearing the 300zx afm is the best or most comman upgrade..can some explain y?

y not a gtr afm? or do they use the same ones??

anyway, i found some z32 afm ebay for like $180 to $300bucks, new & used, they vary..just gota look..

and stores around my area want like around 450-600 for a new z32 afm..

so wat u think? and would a second-hand z32 afm? be beta than my stock r33 s2 afm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191376-afmwat-should-i-get/
Share on other sites

z32 is the way to go, I just got mine brand new for $295 from justjap plus $45 I think for the Tomei plug. You do need aftermarket management to run it though.

oh really..so i cant get a z32 afm, coz i still got the stock ecu..

you'll probably need a tune if you go Z32. Best bet is to buy a new one. Used AFM might cause complications. You can't really tell the condition on the inside of the afm.

There are a couple of people putting up AFM for sale once in a while. You can get them for $280 including plug sometimes. Good luck!

The only way your gonna tune your stock ecu is by a remap or a piggyback(safc,EMU). Its gonna cost a pop to do that. So if your currently tight with your money don't get the Z32 AFM.

Whats wrong with your AFM at the moment? Have you even tried to fix it?

You need an aftermarket ECU that will read the Z32 or Q45 AFM. You dont need the complete harness, you just need to make sure you get the plug with it so that u can change it over with the old one in your engine bay.

Z32 AFM has a higher resolution (i.e. can read a bigger/finer spectrum/range of voltages) and the Q45 has an even bigger ID (100mm?) but the res. is not so good not to mention trying to get such a big afm to idle properly.

The only way your gonna tune your stock ecu is by a remap or a piggyback(safc,EMU). Its gonna cost a pop to do that. So if your currently tight with your money don't get the Z32 AFM.

Whats wrong with your AFM at the moment? Have you even tried to fix it?

i got a apexi neo afc..and its currently tuned good, i get about 400k's outa my 50l,

so yeah..well the tuning place reckon i mit have a fault wit my afm, or o2 sensor,

ive already replaced my o2, now just my afm..

replacing an rb25 AFM with a z32 AFM will not give you any power increase at all, if that's what you're thinking..

all it does is allows someone who has maxed out the airflow of their stock AFM to see just a little bit more airflow

its not like upgrading a part for more power

replacing an rb25 AFM with a z32 AFM will not give you any power increase at all, if that's what you're thinking..

all it does is allows someone who has maxed out the airflow of their stock AFM to see just a little bit more airflow

its not like upgrading a part for more power

im not buying an afm for more power,

if i wanted more power i would buy a big turbo, and get beta internals,

i want to make my car beta, so i wont run into any problems in the future, wen i plan to get more power..

I woudl start by telling us all what is causing the tuning the place to say that there is a fault with your AFM?

I would try giving it a good clean first. (use electronics contact cleaner, just give it a good spray. Dont touch the spring with your fingers or anything though.)

If it is faulty, buy another stock rb25 AFM from the for sale section (cheap). Then the issue should be resolved. As stated earlier, a Z32 AFM requires an aftermarket ecu or ecu retune/flash (not sure if anyone in perth can do it yet), and is not really needed until you start chasing 220-300rwkw anyway.

Good luck

If the clean doesn't work, you can open it up and re-solder all the points on the PCB board.

Do search for AFM+ Solder+. GTST did a post on how to re-solder the AFM.

If that doesn't work buy a known working second handy as stolen_s15 said.

These suggestions we're giving you is the cheapest way of fixing your problem, Its going to cost a few dollars (literally $10ish max) if you can repair it yourself.

Going for a Z32 is going to cost at least in the $500 region after you pay for a tune.

IMO, jump the AFM hurdle when you get to it. When you hit your 210rwkw and the stock one maxes out, then get the Z32.

Happy AFMing :blush:

Edited by KeyMaker
If the clean doesn't work, you can open it up and re-solder all the points on the PCB board.

Do search for AFM+ Solder+. GTST did a post on how to re-solder the AFM.

If that doesn't work buy a known working second handy as stolen_s15 said.

These suggestions we're giving you is the cheapest way of fixing your problem, Its going to cost a few dollars (literally $10ish max) if you can repair it yourself.

Going for a Z32 is going to cost at least in the $500 region after you pay for a tune.

IMO, jump the AFM hurdle when you get to it. When you hit your 210rwkw and the stock one maxes out, then get the Z32.

Happy AFMing :D

way ahead of ya..lol

ive already cleaned it..like 1 day after i posted the topic..i cleaned the afm..with electrical cleaner..

looks beta..

my tech mate at work reckons, i just need to reset the idle/acc/air valve or somethin..some sensor that connects to the ecu..

he said no damage, just a bit annoying!!

which it is..

but wit the re-soldering of the afm...

do u mean under wer the plug connects too?

i took these four secrews out and i didnt realise that theres a circuit-board under der wat soldered to the top cover, with no-slack to remove the top..lol

so i broke the solder

woops!

so i gave that a quick spray wit electrical cleaner..

than put the cover(cover wit plug on it, wer the harness connects to on afm)

back on..carefully

so im gona take it to a electrical store an get to re-solder the 3 wires back on..but this time i mit put in a bit of wire, just so i can remove it in-future an giv it a clean again, without breaking the solder..lol

does that sound lik a good idea?

Its a DIY for RB26 AFMs but there's no difference to the procedure for RB25 AFMs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t113284.html

is this same as doing it for a rb25 afm??

so u take the panel to c the soldering to the plug..and just re-solder those wires..

coz i pretty sure we only have 3 in gtst afm's...

ill take another look,and giv it shot..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...