Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det Refuses To Start

murrayis

By murrayis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
Posted

Howdy,

A mates just completed a rb20det manual conversion to his auto s13. Everyting on that front is good, got a wireing harness made up very nice. The car started first time, we took it for a drive around the block and found a water leak so we went back to the shop and fixed that up, went to start it again and it would not fire.

We have changed the coil's, ignitor the engine harness, cas, ecu, tested everything we can think of, we have even just got another wireing harness made up yet still the same problem.

There is heaps of fuel going through the engine theres clouds of it coming out the exhaust pipe, but doesn't want to fire.

Has anyone had a problem similar to this? would be a great help as we have been trying to get this running for over a month.

Cheers in advance

Cameron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191920-rb20det-refuses-to-start/
Share on other sites
sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

a guess, i got my car back was a CA18det, drove it all the way home, turned the car off then tryed to start it again, kept cranking over but was not sparking, and if you have tested the coils and cas and everything like that, maybe you have screwed you spark plugs, that wat happened to mine but then it would happen every time i stopped the car, i fixed the over fueling problem using a dr drift chip, but then the same shit happened again, found out some1 put water in my fuel tank and that was causeing all the problems, so maybe it could be your fuel tank, take out you fuel pump and stick you hand into the tank and feel around see if you can feel any grit (rust) from water, if u can feel rust then it could be that causeing all your problems, worth a shot,

JV

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Jv,

Have changed the spark plugs and all the wire looms on the engine. Also the car has a brand new fuel take and walbro fuel pump.

The previous owner of the engine said it used to do this every now and then just refuse to start, but now it doesnt start at all.

Cameron

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
did you know that before you bought it? or did he tell ya that after this started happening

Funnily enough he never told us it was somsone who knew him, said he was always having trobules you would stop the car and leave it then go start it and it wouldnt but if you left it for a whle it would start, but now it doesnt

We checked the ignition this morning and the coils are firing, we are htinking maybe the injectors are staying open because after cranking it for 10 seconds cloudes of fuel smoke is coming out of the back of the car.

Somehow could they be jammed open? and jsut pooring fuel into the engine?

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Timing is spot on the money that was one of the first things we tested when we changed over the CAS

We have done a compression test but can't remember the figures, i think they where pretty low, how low would they need to be to not run?

The weird thing is it started fine then we drove it around the block and found a water leak at the back of the engine which was just one of the water lines which we fixed.

How can the timing go a tooth out theres a locator in the cam shalf and on the CAS drive shaft a half moon shape :S

Edited by murrayis
boot_it Enthusiast

boot_it

Posted
Posted
Howdy,

A mates just completed a rb20det manual conversion to his auto s13. Everyting on that front is good, got a wireing harness made up very nice. The car started first time, we took it for a drive around the block and found a water leak so we went back to the shop and fixed that up, went to start it again and it would not fire.

We have changed the coil's, ignitor the engine harness, cas, ecu, tested everything we can think of, we have even just got another wireing harness made up yet still the same problem.

There is heaps of fuel going through the engine theres clouds of it coming out the exhaust pipe, but doesn't want to fire.

Has anyone had a problem similar to this? would be a great help as we have been trying to get this running for over a month.

Cheers in advance

Cameron

does the engine have spark when u crank it over

have u tried another ecu as u could have a rooted ecu

does pinout 43 have power when u crank over the motor

are the cas sensor /maf sensor/ coil packs gettin 12v power supply in (not from ecu)

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
does the engine have spark when u crank it over

have u tried another ecu as u could have a rooted ecu

does pinout 43 have power when u crank over the motor

are the cas sensor /maf sensor/ coil packs gettin 12v power supply in (not from ecu)

Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

boot_it Enthusiast

boot_it

Posted
Posted
Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

pinout 43 is the start signal to the ecu if it doesnt get that signal the car wont start (as u might have a break in the wire some where

have u made sure pinouts 41 and 42 r getting the 1 degree and 120 degree signals from the cas sensor

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

pin 43 is the ignition start signal. to tell the ecu when the car is cranking.

CAS and MAF should only be 5v.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
pin 43 is the ignition start signal. to tell the ecu when the car is cranking.

CAS and MAF should only be 5v.

Hi,

I will check these tomorrow, but i suspect they will be working. As we have just put a new loom in to replace the first one we had hopeing the problem was the loom but we still have the same problem.

Cameron

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

When you say its not starting, is it just constantly winding over? Or does it wind over and occasionally cough and splutter but never start?

My mates CA has an overfueling issue on startup which he gets around by having a switch on his dash to turn the fuel pump off/on. He turns the key to engine on to pressurize the fuel rail then turns the fuel pump off for a couple seconds while starting the engine.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok we foudn the problem on saturday, when staring at the end of the cam shaft we noticed that the locator key was missing snapped off :S so we changed to a spare cam shaft and lined it all up and away it went fired first time :P

turns out our timing gun was wrong faulty also showing and giving false readings.

so problem solved :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Steal01
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By Steal01 · Posted

      It’s going to be a beast!
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...