Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, Mr Engine light came on again, and i cought the code as soon as i got home, it was 33. My car is A r34 skyline.

Click on this link: http://www.r34servicemanual.com/default.aspx?v=24 to see what error code 33 is and let me know what i need to fix or change, doesnt seem to be anything serious and the engine light only came up for about 2 secs lol. Anyways let me know what u guys thing,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/
Share on other sites

Ahh yeah now I know what you mean by it comes on now and again, same thing happened to me. I bought a generic oxygen sensor off ebay, used the existing Nissan plug, crimped the new one on and have never looked back...best $50 I ever spent :(

Contact these people and ask for a Universal 3-wire Oxygen sensor e-bay oxygen sensor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/#findComment-3453582
Share on other sites

hah!...exact same thing I had as well...new O2 sensor fixed it too..

Alex, where were u hiding last nite at S'bank Maccas????? :)

Ahahahah lol you cant prove shit lol. I was with my gf having cake then we went clubbing. Cheers guy ill get one asap. I love this forum saves me having to deal with dodgey mechanics.:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/#findComment-3453867
Share on other sites

hahaha OK it's roughly in the same place, as if you had a turbo (but obviously don't) the only sensor that is sticking out the side of the exhaust

LOL alright i guess i have an idea around where that is lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/#findComment-3454359
Share on other sites

also dan (3lite_32) could probably hook you up with a new 02 sensor

Oh yeah i've use him before anyone got a number for him I lost it, i can tell his a great bloke. Some one find me his number lol :ninja: and ill give him a ring.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/#findComment-3455073
Share on other sites

oh and ther is another sensor on the cat its the exhaust temp sensor. so its no that one its the sensor after ur "extractors" sticks out should have 2-3wires and a 4point plug from memory.

From memory im seeing u next week for oil changes, im gonna try to get the part by then and you can change it mr i know everything about cars :laughing-smiley-014:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192058-r34-ecu-error/#findComment-3457522
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...