Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Ok - I am sorry if this is a really stupid question to ask (in fact I know it is), but i don't know that much about cars....

What I wanna do is make my car faster... (what i want is about 300KWish - but i don't think that is acheivable on my current budget - so just wondering what to start with).

I have about $3k to spend all up - incl. tune etc... and i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what I could do or needed to do to upgrade it...

Last year I made 225HP with

a HKS Super drager Exhaust

GReddy Front Mount intercooler

HKS Pod Filter

HKS Blow off valve...

Everything else stock (including Boost)

Sorry - I also have -

Tein coilovers

I have just recently put a manual turbosmart boost controller on the car - and wound the boost up to about 14psi

This is all i have done to the car so far - but i wanna do more and i know a lil about what i can do... but i am not too sure where i can buy the parts and what parts i should get to begin with...

I would really like some suggestions (and sorry again for asking such a dumb question - your time is appreciated)

Thanks heaps

Edited by 33SXC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192379-r33-gts-t-upgrade-help/
Share on other sites

Depends on your interpritation of "faster"

Do you "live 400m at a time", or do you actually drive the car :D

A fast car (in MY opinion) is not judged by straight line performance or RWKW, it's the complete package. Handling and braking will make a car faster than one with just a turbo slapped on making twice the power. It will also be much more enjoyable to drive than a body rolling monster :nyaanyaa:

Next would be (for a good all round package)

- ECU and tune ($1500-$2200)

- Clutch ($900)

- Coil-overs ($1200-$1800)

- Slotted rotors, decent pads, TOP NOTCH brake fluid ($700)

- Fuel pump, injectors, turbo ($4000)

- Whiteline handling pack (front/rear sway bars, adjustable bushes, etc), Pineapples, etc.($1000)

NOTE: Prices are pure GUESSTIMATES, and WILL vary alot

Thanks Al... :D

I actually forgot to put on the post that i do have coilovers (I just edited it)...

Ready for the next dumb question . . . (I have actally been looking for a few days now on the forums & google etc)

Anyways - What type of ECU do I get (like is there any brand that is better) and where would i get that from - my mechanic? should i look for a second hand one.. or buy one brand new??

I am sorry to be so dumb... just trying to learn (If i had a dad or brother i'd ask them... sorry)

Thanks Al... :D

I actually forgot to put on the post that i do have coilovers (I just edited it)...

Ready for the next dumb question . . . (I have actally been looking for a few days now on the forums & google etc)

Anyways - What type of ECU do I get (like is there any brand that is better) and where would i get that from - my mechanic? should i look for a second hand one.. or buy one brand new??

I am sorry to be so dumb... just trying to learn (If i had a dad or brother i'd ask them... sorry)

Im running a Power Fc and Controller. Have had no problems ever and from what people have told me you cant go past it. There just hard to find now.

power fc's are a great and readily used aftermarket ecu for skylines. you can also go with a microtech lt12 or even the wolf v5. IMO i would go power fc. real easy to tune, just a bit hard to find as apexi stopped making them for r33. search the fo sale section but a PFC will cost u between $1000 with no hand controller to about $1600 with 1.

BTw, 14psi boost on stock turbo? are u insane? how quickly do u wanna blow it.

No probs Emma and don't keep saying they're dumb questions; If you don't know and are willing to learn all questions are good one :D

Get the ECU your trusted mechanic/tuner likes using, as he will be able to tune it to the best of the ecu's abilities. Problem is that alot of people/tuners will say "i give any ecu a go", but when it doesn't work 100% or smoothly they bag it, only because they have no idea how to use the ecu features to make the car run smoothly.

I myself have used the Wolf 3D ecu for about 4-5yrs and have found it to be great. On the other hand i have seen many other people come to my mechanic with a very poorly tuned Wolf, and a very disheartened owner. My mechanic then pulls out his laptop dumps my tune into theirs and problems are 80% fixed, the owners leaves the car there with a smile on his face, knowing that it will get tunned properly. This is all the same for other tuners that specialize in other ecu's; they always have their preferred brands.

I have had two mates take their Pfc's to 4 different "well known" workshops to get their Pfc tuned, all came back below satisfactory. Both have now removed and sold the Pfc and purchased the Wolf; that's not to say the Wolf is better than the Pfc, but to say that the other w/shops could not produce a satisfactory tune using the Pfc.

thats true al, get 1 that ur tuner is comfortable with. speak to them.

also if u got 3k to spend, 2k for cmp, 350-400 for tomei fuel pump and the other 600 left over get urself a boost gauge if havent already got 1 and ditch the manual controller for a hks ebc or an ebc that ur tuner knows how to tune with the comp properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...