Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys iv got a problem i have adjusted the length on the actuator to pritty much the minimum boost which is the longest and iv set my EBC too 10 duty cycle and 0 gain and i see 16-17psi how do i get it to 10psi i dont think im adjusting it right do i just turn the rod on the end?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192459-adjusting-hks-internal-wastegate/
Share on other sites

hey guys iv got a problem i have adjusted the length on the actuator to pritty much the minimum boost which is the longest and iv set my EBC too 10 duty cycle and 0 gain and i see 16-17psi how do i get it to 10psi i dont think im adjusting it right do i just turn the rod on the end?

Aren't the spring pressures in the HKS actuators around 15psi? How much boost are they meant to hold with zero bleed?

the longer the rod thing is the less it holds.. so if u wana make it 10psi u goto make it longer. i found if u make it to long tho its crap and is realy realy laggy. disconnect ur ebc and see wat happens also

i thought they where around 10 to 20psi

Wind the rod out till there is no preload on the wategate flap and run you boost line straight to the acuator and then see what boost you get. If you still only get 16Psi then thats the minimum you likely to get unless there is something else wrong with the car.

i found that the wastegate flap isnt smooth when opening and closing its getting stuck and it moves up n down a little where the wastegate rod connects too is that normal ...never ending boost problems lol b4 i was loosing boost at high rpm now im getting too much lol

Edited by Jsikalias

i tryed running the wastegate on its own and for some reason it wont boost more than 8 but if i connect the EBC it will boost too 15psi? how do i get just the wastegate working? because the boost is still droping :whistling: at high rpm

yes

that will make it run 'standard' boost (what the actuator is set at)

eg boost it - it will read maybe 8psi.

if you want it to have more boost, then shorten the rod, and repeat the process.

do this until you find the right boost level, and then attatched and resetup ebc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...