Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, I have a set of Tomei Poncams... 256, 8.5mm for my rb20det. Here's the thing... a big part of the reason it is running crappy is because they were not degreed right. I am getting a set of adjustable cam gears since what I was told is incorrect. I have already read through some threads discussing this. They say basically, when using the poncams, just use stock settings or adjust it to the turbo? Is this correct?

I am having issues in trying to figure out where to start adjusting.... what are some degrees that many of you guys found to help?

Here are some specs from my setup... like usual:

Plazmaman intake plenum, FMIC, HKS SSQV, Z32 maf, T3 turbo, top mount exhaust mani, Tomei cams (above), Splitfire coilpacks, Greddy Type S boost controller, Apexi Neo until my Greddy Emanage Ult. with Map sensor.

So anyway... any averages or ideas of what I should advance/retard my timing at?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192628-tomei-cams-degreed-to-what/
Share on other sites

Okay... I pulled up the Tomei catalog like someone had mentioned in a previous thread and here is what I read from it:

Type: Lash (I assume this is the stock hydraulic lifter type?)

Duration: 256

Lift: 8.5mm

Valve lift: 8.5mm

Valve clearence when cold: n/a or -

Adjust pulley initial value: 115

Lobe center angle: 32... with a symbol in front

So, I assume what I'm looking for is the adjust pulley intial value and the lobe center angle?

No one up here plays with rb20s and they think it cannot achieve the power you guys have proven... so finding a tech who knows what to do is slim to none. But if I can find the information that he can use as a base and extrapolate from, then we are in business... otherwise it's just a waste of time testing lots of crap and I really dont have that much money for just about endless tuning.

115 will mean lobe centre, i have degreed my RB26 cams in before my self and made massive gains

My understanding:

If your lobe centres want to be at 115 deg then: A lobe center of 115 on the inlet cam means that maximum valve opening will be at 115º ATDC and 115 on the exhaust will mean that maximum valve lift will be at 115º BTDC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...