Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Wizards, Help!

dmr

By dmr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
Posted (edited)

i've noticed this low tone knocking sound coming from my engine bay lately. a few friends identified it as my power steering pump but i'm not too sure on that. i thought i might have fkd a bottom end bearing but it doesn't sound too much like it.

characteristics:

only happens when it's really hot, or after a long drive

as the car cools down the sound fades away

i can only hear it on idle

it doesn't get louder as i rev

here's a crap quality short vid of it: http://youtube.com/watch?v=x8MkEz9VD9M

(the sound was a bit louder a couple minutes before i shot that vid)

Edited by dmr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193967-rb20-wizards-help/
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

A bearing knock is generally only there on startup before it gets sufficent oil pressure to fill the larger clearance. So you can pretty safely cross that off your list...which is a good thing. What you need to do is buy an automotive stethescope and you can then isollate the noise to where its actually coming from. They arent expensive and thats what we use at work to pin point all noises that are hard to find. Good tool shops will sell them. I know BSC sell them cheap too. About 30 bucks i think.

Good luck :ermm:

Deren

dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A bearing knock is generally only there on startup before it gets sufficent oil pressure to fill the larger clearance. So you can pretty safely cross that off your list...which is a good thing. What you need to do is buy an automotive stethescope and you can then isollate the noise to where its actually coming from. They arent expensive and thats what we use at work to pin point all noises that are hard to find. Good tool shops will sell them. I know BSC sell them cheap too. About 30 bucks i think.

Good luck :ermm:

Deren

Thanks Deren, i'll look into that as of tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...