Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well here is a small comparison.

running exaclty the same still using the afm's for now (only for sake of comparison will be swapped out straight after) same filter everything.

this red line is the pfc (tuned by P.I.T.S) and the blue is the wolf v500 tune, which is not finished yet there is still a little way to go and to sought out why the power is dropping down so early. going to play with the timing and look at it possibly blowing out the spark (splitfire coils with 1.1mm plug gap)

throttle response is noticably better with a much smoother running motor. same power so far but it is coming on a lot earlier.

one issue my mechanic has noticed is it was running a bit rough (barely) when using larger mapping points. so we have dropped the mapping points down to 125rpm increments. much smoother.

post your thought people.

p.s. sorry about the quality, dodgy phone camera. cause scanner isn't working.

post-30153-1195645978_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194724-wolf-4500-vs-pfc/
Share on other sites

The ECU is only as good as its tuner. :bunny:

Is this on the same dyno? Same tuner? Same day?

I ask because if it isnt, then its pretty hard (and pointless) to compare tiny differences in graphs like that. :)

The variance between the (many) factors of the dyno settings, air temp settings, tune settings etc etc are going to be more of a factor than the ECU itself which then makes it hard to same one "vs" one, this is better.

Its probably a case of the tuner spent more time on the tune, or leaned a bit more on the set-up than anything else... and that's solely attributed to different tuners (and tunes themselves), not ECU's because no two tunes will be the same if your changed the whole management. There is bound to be tiny differences like in the graph :D

The ECU is only as good as its tuner. :bunny:

Is this on the same dyno? Same tuner? Same day?

I ask because if it isnt, then its pretty hard (and pointless) to compare tiny differences in graphs like that. :)

The variance between the (many) factors of the dyno settings, air temp settings, tune settings etc etc are going to be more of a factor than the ECU itself which then makes it hard to same one "vs" one, this is better.

Its probably a case of the tuner spent more time on the tune, or leaned a bit more on the set-up than anything else... and that's solely attributed to different tuners (and tunes themselves), not ECU's because no two tunes will be the same if your changed the whole management. There is bound to be tiny differences like in the graph :D

different tuner however same dyno but different days. and yes the tuner has put more time into it, just merely pointing out that there is the possibility of putting more time into it i.e using much closer mapping points (125rpm increments) doing things like running twin maps (a future plan) just thought i would post it up for the hell of it. however once the wolf v500 is fully tuned then i will do a back to back comparison run as both are plug and play.

still more than happy with the power coming on a bit earlier up top. and like i said throttle response is noticably better. but then again the wolf is a more expensive ecu.

If there is more timing in one of the tunes, therefore they are not "the same".

Of course one will make more power than the other at various points with more timing, and this will attribute to throttle response as well.0

Could also be that the part throttle mapping has also had some extra work.

My main point is exactly as my first line earlier, the ECU is only as good as its tuner.

You have different ECU's, different tunes and different tuners... i would only be surprised if the results were the same :D

yeah i suppose. just let me bask in my ignorance for a bit longer. still pretty good results. here's another sheet form this afternoon after a bit more fiddling. cars almost finished. bloody mechanic still fidling with the tune just to see how good he can get it.

still more than happy with the results. going to fiddle a little bit more and try to get the power coming on a little earlier.

another intresting note is that more timing was actually fed in at higher rpm's as opposed to the general rule of thumb, more boost less timing. (still nothing compared to a n/a motor)

post-30153-1195722004_thumb.jpg

well that was kinda the plan but yeah not now. pretty much decided i am happy enough with that figure to not bother toying anymore. get the car back either today or tomorrow so i can't wait to take her for a drive.

i know it's not really a direct comparison. but it does (kinda) show how much further you can go with a better ecu. horses for courses though the PFC is a fair bit cheaper and a lot easier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...