Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i did but im going to do a full brake flush when i get the chance with some new fluid and thinking of getting some QFM pads for the front, use copper grease and hopefully i get some better results

with standard rotors and stock nissan pads it done it maybe 20% of the time but this is like 80% if not more

I've just had the same problem running DS2500's on stock rotors and calipers. Noisy-Noisy bastards! And I laughed when I read you were pulling the handbrake on because so was I.. I swear it was that loud it could break glass...

A mate of mine had a fix! It was a rubber strip with adhesive on one side. More or less just like a sticker that you stick to the back of the pad. I have to admit I was dubious, but it was worth a try. Fixed 95% of it straight up! I've driven for a couple of days with it and mostly there is no squeal at all. The "occasional" squeal here and there, but also no where near as loud as before, and you would expect some noise form those pads at low temps anyway I think..

The bad news? I don't know the name of the product! But he got it from Perth Brake Parts. Its about .5mm or maybe 1mm thick. Looks like black rubber, and you just peel it off its backing like a sticker and stick it to the back of the pad.

Hope you can track it down from that?

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It was a rubber strip with adhesive on one side. More or less just like a sticker that you stick to the back of the pad. I have to admit I was dubious, but it was worth a try. Fixed 95% of it straight up! I've driven for a couple of days with it and mostly there is no squeal at all.

they're called stick on shims and available from performance friction aka barry smith motorsport in canberra also. you can try descaling both the hub and both sides of the rotor flange. dba swear this removed squealing on a wrx. call aaron at dba, i had a long chat to him re squealing, he's also of the opinion that you need to get the right pad - not just any street pad.

yes the rubber things are the generic anti squeal shims sort of thing, i will give them a try

they're called stick on shims and available from performance friction aka barry smith motorsport in canberra also. you can try descaling both the hub and both sides of the rotor flange. dba swear this removed squealing on a wrx. call aaron at dba, i had a long chat to him re squealing, he's also of the opinion that you need to get the right pad - not just any street pad.

what the hell is descaling ?

must look it up...

keep the ideas coming guys, im going to beat this . i dont give a f**k

i picked up some stick on shims yesterday from perth brake parts for $8(enough to do rears) and the squeeling seems to have gone 95% of the time. Time will tell if the squeeling comes back after a week like the goo but hopefully that won't happen as shims can't exactly dry up like the goo.

I put up with the squeeling for months and finally had enough and this seems to have worked(fingers crossed) so everyone else who gets as annoyed with it as i did give the stick on shims a go

i've got a similar porblem. the squeal is crazy loud now and i cant stop anywhere without it squealing. only happens on lowspeed however if im turning left especially at say 60-80 there is a loud wail. very different to the lowspeed stuff. i also get a gurgling/ rubbing noise sometimes. its shitting me up the wall

to the guys who used the stick on shims, you removed your metal shims didnt you and just used them?

Well I didn't actually have any metal shims in the first place (which is probably half the reason it was sqealing). But yes, I used only the stick by themselves.

to the guys who used the stick on shims, you removed your metal shims didnt you and just used them?

i kept my metal shims on and used these as well so have both

Edited by Onthehunt
damn 2 different things lol

will try get some on the weekend and see how it goes

to be honest i rekon it wont do shit but i hope im wrong!

i thought to myself that it is worth a shot as it will take a couple of hours tops to do and if it works for the $10 and 2 hours of effort it is well well worth the reward of not having a really bloody annoying squeal every time you hit the brakes...and it brings a smile to my face every time i pull up without the squeal now lol

I would definitely keep the metal shims on as well, it won't do any harm to leave on them on as well so why would you take them off but just see how you go and post up here how you went.

Edited by Onthehunt

i cleaned up the shims on the pad backing plate side and gave it a quick clean on piston side but didn't put any grease on it. In the stick on shims packaging it had a warning saying do not apply any goo in between shims and pad and make sure it was clean of any so i did that.

just an update. Today i installed some new pads QFM 500deg ones

on a good note, damn they stop soooooooo much better than my other pads

on a bad note, squeal is still there

got some questions about the shims, will draw a bodgy mspaint drawing to explain but yeah now im not sure if the squeal is coming from the front or rear but most of the time it comes from the passenger side

i took out the shims, cleaned them real good, put a small dab of goo on the back of the brake pads and installed them again. bed them in but still get squeals but not as bad (altho its only been 1 day)

picture coming up soon

oh i only changed the fronts so far as i didnt want to buy all round pads and still not fix it as my old pads are only a few months old

btw, spoke to a brake place (brakewest) and they said the stock shims are better than the stick on ones thats why i didnt install them yet rather got better quality pads. They thought after i explained the whole story that my cheapo chinese brake pads were the problem

also they pointed out that the little corner shim is the most important and if u dont have it u will get squeals (i DO have it tho.. and i got a question on the positioning of it)

Here is the picure, its pretty bad and im going off memory but is that the right placing of the shim on the corner? sits in the top corner of each pad when they are installed fasing inwards towards the rotors and the other shims or on the opposite side facing the pistons

brakefv4.th.jpg

I had a squealer in the other day, the problem was the pins that hold the pads in were slightly worn. So the pads were moving aorund in the callipers, this caused wear where the pads sit in the callipers. I welded on to the backers a small dab, then linished it to fill the gap to the calliper. It is also worth checking the dimensions of the pad backers. If they are undersized, even slightly, they allow the pad to vibrate, it's the high frequency vibration that you hear as squeal.

Some brands of pads are worse than others when it comes to correct sizing of the backers, so make sure you check them carefully before you put them in. The 4 spots callipers (compared to sliding callipers) are always more prone to incorrect pads sizing, they simply have to be spot on.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...