Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

Well while I was 600km from home I had a heater hose leak (R33 gtst). I made a bypass and have made it home, all good, no overheating issues.

Now, I guess it is time to replace as many hoses as possible in the cooling system. So how many hoses are there and where do I get all these parts from?

Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the heater hoses and any other necessary Nissan parts?

I will replace as much straight/small hoses with Pirtek generic hose I guess. And the radiator must need replacing too, so I guess I'll get one of those Mspec ones?

Anybody done this to an R33 GTST and can help me out with some advice? Is there a kit and a Nissan part number?

Edited by simpletool
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195621-cooling-system-hoses/
Share on other sites

So far I have found:

Heater hoses (4) in silicon by samco (UK) for R33/R34 and R32 GTR. Worth a look if you want quality.

Ebay also has a 14 piece kit for the GTR (includes oil, air and water lines). But quality could be a bit unknown for pressure.

I am in contact with Nissan atm, will give part numbers when I get them.

This is on my to do list as well, dammit, that list is so long.

Gates Racing make very good quality hoses, I have used them on other cars and they are much better than the stock ones, they tend not to go all soft and loose around fittings after time like other hoses do. I'm not sure about them making the heater hoses though, I know they make the main ones.

But Samco only make for GTR, pity.

I've got a pic of the heater and cooling systems from Nissan, I will upload tonight or tomorrow.

Got 2 heater hoses and the white plastic 4-way joiner thing on the firewall on order.

I will also get Gates radiator pipes and the Mspec radiator. I will replace the other hoses next year - hopefully by then someone will make a silcon kit or something. Surely there are hundreds of R33 GTST owners out there who must be so close to needing new hoses, mine is a late 96 and it's time. What about those older car owners?

Edited by simpletool

I did this very thing on my gtst. I had one of the rad hoses let go and figured they were all the same age and didn't want a coolant hose to keep leaking every second week.

I simply went to nissan (brighton here in Melb) and said I want every coolant hose replaced....they did all the hard work sourcing the hoses (no kit, although some hoses come in pairs etc). This was about 3 years ago so I don't have the receipt but from memory it cost around the 800 mark for all the hoses and clamps + labour to get them done. Not cheap but gave me piece of mind and I never had another problem.

Oh yeah and I'd def go genuine hoses as they are rated to pressures and temps. Other non genuine hoses NEVER seem to last as long as the genuine items.

Here are the diagrams as promised for R33 Series 2 - RB25DET

Heater Hoses:

post-23086-1196832090_thumb.jpg

Coolant Hoses:

post-23086-1196832126_thumb.jpg

Part numbers can be hard to make out, but these were supplied to my by Nissan parts person. There are prefix number to be attached to these, but now you can see what they see when looking for your parts.

The thing in the top corner of the heater hoses is the white plastic part that goes on the firewall - I got a new one of these today.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...