Jump to content
SAU Community

Worn suspension - How to tell

Grim
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

The best way I have found is if you hit a decent sized bump, the steering wheel will shudder. It depends on the size or angle of the bump you hit (ie, it may not do it every time), but if the suspension is good the steering wheel will never shudder on any bumps.

You can also try bouncing the car, if it rebounds more than once then your shock absorbers are gone. But they can also be gone and still only rebound once. A suspension shop test is the best way to tell if you think it might be worn. They are usually free or very cheap.

YEE-HAA Collaborator

YEE-HAA

Posted
Posted

I noticed my shocks were gone while driving on a cruise in the Adelaide Hiills, and I noticed the car understeering majorly, and I lost confidence in it. Once I replaced all four shocks with brand new Bilsteins, the car, and I, were happy as Larry!

Gonad Man Enthusiast

Gonad Man

Posted
Posted

G'day Hippy

Yeah like Jim said it could be wheel alignment.

It could also be tramlining. It is more prevalent when you run wider, lower profile tyres, more negative camber and tyres with stiff sidewalls like most good performance tyres.

If you find the wheel is pulling mostly on roads with longitudinal ruts then this is most likely the problem. If this is the case a good wheel alignment and maybe lowering your tyre pressures a little bit will definitely help but for performance cars this is a bit of a trade-off we have to accept.

Just something to keep in mind........

Cheers,

Ben

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

Basically the only companies that make a replacement shock for skylines are whiteline, bilstein and koni... pedders, monroe and the others don't have any i have checked already for my R33... i think KYB have some tho?

As for that suspension safety check i had that done by pedders, the full thing, and they assured me nothing was wrong as i was worried about a knock from the front left and they even did the drive on shocker test and came up fine, only to find that i got rid of the knock when i replaced the shock with another stock item off a mates care that was in good condition... whats the deal with that? Not very accurate testing if you ask me, actually quite dangerous cos to someone who didn't know much about mechanics and stuff then you would have left it and could have caued serious problems. I also discovered a shotty swaybar link which they failed to pick up and if this item brakes can cause a very serious loss of control while driving.

I still have a slight knock and sqeak coming from the front end but finding it hard to pin point, still sound slike something is lose, so i am going to check the wheel bearings and the right hand shock also to ensure it isn't that. Still got me baffled tho.

Bleach1 Proficient

Bleach1

Posted
Posted

Grim, there are two really good suspension places in sydney with really good names i have dealt with. One is Selbys at carringbah who or a place at minto called whiteline. I wouldnt go to pedders, they dont have a clue. Well, from what i have seen anyway. Another way is to see if you have like a clear type thick fluid type leak from the front corners of the car. They are the Caster rods leaking, they always wear on skylines and leave sticky shit on the garage floor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...