Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get your friendly hose doctor in to do the job. It is not straightforward, and a "kit" may not just quite do what you need. Ring Pirtek or Enzed and a mobile unit can come to you.

BTW, are you using a GT28 cored high flow, or a GT28 with adaptor to mount up? (off thread but just curious)

yeah i looked at that approach, just heaps of effort and large cost involved. esp. if they come to you.

for reference tweakit.com.au do stock one its $395 :S

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...9d94de8f44a72cf

2nd reference: GCG also stock a kit for the same price.

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Turb...fittingkits.htm

Pm Sent

Is there anywhere else that stocks them?

Edited by 55yko

FYI: spoke to ENZED (in Brisbane) got the following reply:

"Unfortunately, we would be unable to send someone on site for that particular job, this type of work is carried out at our premises at Hendra or Strathpine Only. Each job varies so any price supplied would be indicative. Prices maybe $150-$300 depending on the fittings and labour involved."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...