Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I might be doing a Neo Rb25 conversion into my s13 as my mate has a half cut of a r34. TOkyo toys can do the conversion. Now how is the potential of a Neo rb25? Like I heard its hard to tune as most tuners(here in qld) dont know how to tune them for more power. Any r34 owners here have problems with getting more power?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19584-neo-rb25-conversion/
Share on other sites

Are we talking RB25DET Neo or RB25DE Neo here? I haven't heard anything about either being hard to tune. As far as I know they're basically the same as the R33 engines.

I reckon an RB25DE would be a nice cheap upgrade for a Q's Silvia or even a K's CA18DET. Have you checked out how it will affect the weight balance?

Mase - Hehe nah dude its completely legal. Its been done heaps of times. Some of my friends have rb20's and rb25s in their silvia's/180s. The rb25 ones go REALLY HARD. They are awesome. Just that none have seen a NEo rb25 in a s13.

MIC33R - This is a Neo Rb25det. Well I knew a mate who has a r34 and he spent like 10 grand with upgrades and to only get maginal gains. This was done at sub zero too, so it was at a pretty reputable place. BUt yeah he says that just the tuners here in QLD dont have much experience in tuning the NeO engine. But I think NSW it might not be the case as there is probably a more wider range and experienced tuners there.

Doesnt it have improved VVT as well, ie greater range?

Just about any turbo motor will improve from stock if you stick to the age old formula, ie, exhaust, intake filter, management, boost. After that it goes on, cams, cam gears, porting, bigger turbo etc - usual stuff. This is of course not taking into account weaknesses in any support systems (fuel system, clutch, etc)

HPI have run a series of articles on an R34 GTt (RB25DET Neo), and have extracted much better power using exactly this process. At last count I think it was putting down approx 230-240 odd rwkw with a highflow, and now they are doing injectors, turbo, manifold, head gasket, mild port - aiming for around 300 ish.

I am not aware of any major differences between the R33 and R34 engine at the basic block/head design level

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...