Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hI GUYS, my uncle and I have recently fitted an Apexi AVC-R to my r32 gts-t. In the etc. menu I have put the correct settings to what car it is etc...

Although my problem is that its boosting more than it should. I have set it to 0.7 bar (11psi) and through testing its reached a max of 0.83 bar and an average of 0.76 bar.

I believe that the duty cycle may need to be set properly. I know that the AVC-R is wired correctly because its showing correct stats on speed, revs, boost etc...

Maybe I have left something out although I can only think its the duty cycle at this point in time.

Thanks

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19606-please-help-with-setting-avc-r/
Share on other sites

under boost set your desired boost and in duty cycle, step down one by one % until you reach your desired boost. if it doesn't change, then you've hooked up the solenoid wrong. remember to do the boosting in the same gear.

different gears give different boost levels (not by much tho) so use the gear learning function to keep your boost the same in each gear.

and don't get busted speeding when testing your boost level :)

i have done the sensor check and it seems to be right, although I have one question that maybe effecting it - instead of drilling a hole before the throttle body for one of the hoses for the solaniod valve a mechanic said that it would work the same from the actuator hose (the one ur ment to close off) so thats what we have done, also to avoid drilling a whole in the piping. Is that wrong?

thanks heaps for your help

:D

Which do you mean by actuator hose? Do you mean the one from the return from the BOV? In mine it was blocked off there, and taken from before the throttle side.

There should also be settings to adjust "sharpness" or basically reduce spiking, but i'm not fully familiar with the AVC-R functions so couldn't say definitely. I know in my ProfecB that setting can effect whether it hits an exact boost when u quickly put your foot to the floor or creep up 1-2psi over.

You probably should take it to somebody to specifically dyno tune after the install - as you will also need fuel/air adjustments as well to sort it all. The whole characteristics will have changed, even if you're running similar boost levels.

Hey Gordo, its the actuator hose that goes to the front of the turbo i believe, which is getting intake air anyway thats why the mechanic said it should work rather than drilling a hole in the intake before the throttle body. I feel completely lost after trying to set it for so long i think i give up. Im gonna give it a service next week and a dyno also :D

Do you think Ice will be able to look at it for me?

Do they know about the avc-r?

Is it better to get a service before the dyno or doesn't it matter?

Thanks Gordo

:(

On mine at least, on the cooler piping before it goes into the throttle body there is a nipple (part of the HKS piping) - this goes via hose into the "in" side of my boost solenoid. From there the "out" side goes direct to the actuator.

Depending on how the AVC-R works, it may just need a t-piece into the existing intake->actuator line. Wait a tic.. will check the installation diagram for u.

i will post a pic tonight as i have a new shiny digicam *woot* picture is 1000 stupid words :(

Ice definitely would know about the AVC-R (or VMS, BMT or any other workshop probably) and probably installed 50 or more.. they can tell u what you are doing wrong. If you have time go down there and they'll probably tell u in 5 seconds. They can hook you up with a dyno tune as well.

Service will help if they clean or replace the plugs. New oil, and new fuel filter might make the engine rev a bit more smoothly too... so might be a good idea b4 the dyno.

cheers

I'm looking at the diagram right in front of me.. From what it sounds like, you've got the air line side of things connected up all fine. As long as you got your pressure sensor rigged between the fuel reg and the plenum all should be fine.

Sounds like something else is going on.. anyway, sounds like the BMT guys can sort it out for you.

Thanks heaps Gordo ur a great help mate!!!!

Thanks Jedcoyxiicut if got it ready to be seen by Excess Engineering as they aparently distribute all the apexi stuff, although I will contact you if all fails. Thanks heaps again mate!

Also could you tell me how much it would cost for a basic service and dyno tune?

Thanks again guys :P

Thanks heaps Dr Drift, I'll definetly be comming to u for dyno tunes and services and stuff. I will need a dyno very soon so i will give u a buzz, also thanks for offering to explain the cycles with me as Im very interested with the dyno stuff :D

Talk to you soon Mate

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…)   photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq
    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
×
×
  • Create New...