Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought some 350z track rims the other week, they are 18x8 with a +30 offset. The tyres are 245/45 on the front and 265/45 on the rear.

Grip has improved incredibly since replacing the stock rims/wheels. The tyres are bridgestones potenzas from the top of my head, which although are very noisy seem to be quite good (took car for a drive in the wet the other night and had a lot more traction than I usually do).

The only problem is the rear tyres scrape along the guards when turning into my driveway and negotiating other bumpy/uneven turns. The front tyres can also as well. These problems occur when the weight balance of the car is out of wack, i.e. the car is sitting on uneven ground, suspension is higher/lower on either side.

I want to get into some track work early next year, if I stick with my current imagine taking corners at 80k/phr will cause the tyres to scrape on the opposite side to the way I'm turning (due to body roll).

Brings me to my options:

1) Replace tyres with smaller profile tyres. This will return my speedo to normal (currently out of whack by about 10%) and should stop my scraping problems. Would I get anything trying to sell the tyres? About 60% tread?

2) Roll guards. If my rear guards were rolled it would probably fix the problem there, however even if I roll my front guards I don't think it will stop them from rubbing. This also runs the risk of paint being cracked during the process.

3) Sell the wheels/tyres and replace. If I went down this track I'd want 17" lighter weight wheels, something that looks half decent and doesn't cost a fortune.

When I changed to the 350z rim I felt a slight decrease in stopping / acceleration. The rims apparently weigh 18kg each (without tyres). So a lighter rim would have more than one advantage.

What do you guys recommend?

If I were you, I would just get smaller tyres. If they still rub, roll the guards. If you don't care about the speedo, just roll.

It really depends if you like the wheels or not. Do you regret buying them? If you do, then maybe try a new set of wheels.

Don't regret buying them, got them at a good price. The tyres and wheels fill the guards nicely (a little too nicely it seems haha).

It'll probably cost me around $800+ to replace the tyres on all four wheels.

If I sell the rims (probably get near $1000), I can then spend an extra $800 (total 1800) on new rims /w tyres.

Guess I'll just keep my eyes open, see if any other wheels pop up that I like.

Just get your guards rolled. Should cost about $45 per guard. Might solve the problem, if it doesn't the part of the tyre where it's rubbing will eventually get worn out and stop (assuming that the rubbing doesn't kill your tyres altogether).

Im running 17 x 9 +30 r33 gtr rims on my 32 no scrub when its not super low i.e gap between tyre and guard with 235/45

all round is your car super low?

you could probably get away easily with just bashing in the lip

Yeah the rear guard lips will be ok if rolled upwards.

The front guards won't be I don't think. When the steering wheel is turned to the right or left and the front wheels stick out the side, the gap between the top of the tyre and the guard is very small. Don't even think you'd be able to roll it as the bit that's almost touching is not the "inner lip" area, but the actual outside guard area itself. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow to better show what I mean. This area is only a problem if turning at speed causing body roll.

So I think I might either need to get lower profile tyres, or new wheels altogether. Car is not super low, definitely lower than standard though.

There is an old saying...

"Dont Buy wheels to fit the car. Make your car fit the wheels"

Roll guards, then maybe increase spring rates if It still is a problem (Makes it harder for the tyres to get close to the guards under load, and Still cheaper than new tyres), then drop the bastard another half inch!

Edited by R31 drift pig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...