Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at getting some adj camber arms for f+r

Can only find places with Cusco/Tein for my car.

And i have checked Nengun/Greenline/PerfectRun

Where can i see some Ikeya Formula products?

Or do any of our sponsors stock these?

Cheers~

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/
Share on other sites

They seem to be good enough for street cars and low/mild track cars....we used the lower control arms for our r33 and ran out of adjustment and also found the balljoint was at the wrong angle, as soon as we went past -3 degrees of camber the balljoint bound up and wouldnt turn....had to modify the suckers so we could get a descent amount of adjustment out of them.

After using their lower control arms and finding how limited they were in adjustment, it makes me wonder just how 'good' their stuff really is, maybe im just more the type who would rather make their own stuff to suit the situation.

Check to see how much adjustability they offer before you buy them. For a street/road car application im sure it would be good enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3524350
Share on other sites

i tend to agree. the ikeya stuff doesn't really blow me away quality wise. the cusco arms i have are much nicer then the ikeya once i have. cusco ones have bigger rose joints, better (3 piece, stainless, thick shell) rose joints and just seem nicer quality. but cusco don't make 32 GTR traction rods so i used ikeya for those. don't get me wrong, i wouldn't say they are crap, but they are not amazing either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3525314
Share on other sites

i tend to agree. the ikeya stuff doesn't really blow me away quality wise. the cusco arms i have are much nicer then the ikeya once i have. cusco ones have bigger rose joints, better (3 piece, stainless, thick shell) rose joints and just seem nicer quality. but cusco don't make 32 GTR traction rods so i used ikeya for those. don't get me wrong, i wouldn't say they are crap, but they are not amazing either.

nagisa-auto FTW :D top bloke great gear and get pissed whilst browsing :( i remmeber the lower arms and stuff i bought there about 5 years back... stunning and 20 beers later we managed to escape his shop.... the best thing about his shop was a little sign on the toilets... has anyone been there and seen it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196517-ikeya-formula/#findComment-3526066
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...