Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

;)

A link by itself is virtually useless and will be seen by a very few.

You should have copy and pasted the text into this thread (crediting the author) so that it comes up in a search.

Course, I wouldn't bother if i was you as

a) Its been mis labeled as a "carbon?" cannister, instead of charcoal cannister

b) Its the second hit in a Google search of "RB26DETT carbon cannister removal" (as per (a) - moot)

c) The mod is illegal and upsets the hippies (and possibly dangerous, spilling fuel into the engine bay if the car goes upside down i think)

d) The time spent doing this "mod" could be spent installing a new one (some evidence shows an old one can cause bad mileage) somewhere out of the way, like these tuning gods talk about Click :D

More information -> Click

Let the googlebot index THIS page :ermm:

Good Times

Edited by GeeTR

Why would you want to do that? Catch can still fits - I like saving fuel not wasting it... :bunny: most skylines havent even done 100,000klms, theyre even replaced/installed as part of complaincing when theyre imported so most are new anyhow

I think you guys do it different over there, a lot of our Skyline's have done over 100,000km + we can fit/remove whatever we want to out cars without hiding or what not, we don't have compliance checks just a basic MOT and you can have the biggest turbo sat under bonnett with electronic gizmo's and catch tanks where ever you want, the police have no power to tell us how we mod our cars. The only thing they get annoyed by is really dark tinited windows :D

Charcoal canister doesnt save fuel. It merely filters the fuel vapours coming out of the breather of the fuel tank before purging it into the inlet manifold at an appropriate engine speed controlled via manifold vacuum. You dont need to replace it and its only got 2 hose clips, and one bolt to slip it out of its bracket.

Like the other guys said, its pointless removing it. The car was designed to have one so leave it be. People seem hell bent on modifying things regardless of whether its an improvement or not :(

I prefer a cleaner less cluttered looking engine bay as do a lot of people. I respect your view if you want to keep it. The car was also designed to stay at stock boost and not have boost restrictors removed, d-cat's etc etc etc, pointless argument. If you don't want to do it, don't do it, if you do, and many do there is a nice tutorial for you. BTW liking your rebuild thread :(

Couldn't copy and paste it as the forum won't accept the way the pics are, it's my work and most have found it very usefull, so :banana:

==================================================================

From: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...8154#post758154

Just done this job, it free's up a bit of space, just right for a oil catch can, plus I'm told they don't last much longer than 100,000km so most will be past their sell by date. Oh you could always replace it from Nissan but you'd need to re-mortgage your house biggrin.gif

BTW This is an R32, I'm pretty sure it is relavent for 33's and 34's too, let me know if not...

Any way on to the removal, very simple so any one with some tools can attempt this.

1) You'll start off with something like this, excuse my engine bay being in such a state but I'm in the middle of several messy jobs.

Skyline002.jpg

2) Pull off the top 3 pipes and losen the 10mm bolt that holds the canister.

Skyline004.jpg

3) There is one more big pipe under the canister, you can try and disconnect this from the tube that runs in to the chassis rail but it's awkward, I just pulled the canister up and the pipe popped off any way, that's the canister removed. Next to the canister there is a 10mm bolt and 2x10mm underneath, remove those and the whole metal bracket comes free.

4) Now on to removing/blocking of the pipes, the two circled in green can be removed completley from just behind the top timing belt cover. This can be done without removing any of the IC piping, it's just that mine is removed due to other stuff I'm doing.

The one circled in red is the fuel tank vent and needs to be left open as it is, considering a small amount of fuel vapour will escape here I'm going to advise you extend this pipe down to the bottom part of the engine for purely safety reasons, personally I feel the location I have it on the IC pipe is fine, it gets enough air past it and the vapour really isn't alot now it's not getting sucked out, I'll leave it up to you to decide, if your in any doubt/can't decide route to the bottom of the engine. (you can remove the metal clip)

med_gallery_14713_1421_47848.jpg

gallery_14713_1421_72184.jpg

5) On to the other side of the engine, is where one of the pipes leads to, losen the metal clip then pull the ruber tube off and cap this off with whatever you feel best, I've used a bolt for the moment, you can then cable tie this tube to some where suitable/the other rubber piping...

gallery_14713_1421_60936.jpg

gallery_14713_1421_70473.jpg

The other pipe leads to the front throttle bodies, this again can be pulled off and capped.

gallery_14713_1421_50339.jpg

And that's a good job done, I also removed the foam around the IC piping to clean things up a bit further, you should be left with this little lot that used to clutter your engine bay smile.gif

gallery_14713_1421_70063.jpg

=================================================================

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...