Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the seris of Initial D.....You kno that black Evo III where the driver thinks he's the best but looses to the 86, FC and MR2?

well......what is that Mis-firing system? i thought mis fires were bad for u'r car. Obiviuosli it went harder for him.

Or is this just some comic thing they just made up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19729-anyone-seen-initial-d/
Share on other sites

from what i've read...the misfiring system simply allows your turbo to stay spooled when you lift off the throttle to change gears....commonly found on rally cars.:D

technically(correct me if i'm wrong) fuel and a spark is mixed in the exhaust manifold to give it a "mini-combustion" so that ur turbo can stay spinning...hence the 'pop' sound. sorta like back-firing....to a much lesser extent.

heard the EVO 5 had it, but disabled in the road-going versions....apparently it ain't the most healthy thing to do to your engine, shortens the life of it or something....unless you have a sponsor of a rally team like RALLIArt or STi:uh-huh:

Guest neoGT-25

hey guys, my friend is obsesed with LanEvo and has read alot on the mis-fire exhaust system... he told me this so i could post it:

TURBO-CHARGER ANTI-LAG SYSTEM OR MISFIRING SYSTEM AND IN ENGLISH BOOMBOOM SYSTEM

Autronic turbo-charger anti-lag system uses a coordinated fuel and ignition control strategy in conjunction with a large effective throttle opening to produce a substantial reduction in turbo-charger "lag". The system is effective from a standing start, throughout up & down shifts and when accelerating out of corners. The system can be used with a large fixed throttle opening, or in conjunction- with electro-mechanical throttle by-pass valve or a throttle "kicker" solenoid. The system incorporates an optional turbo-charger cool-down function that ensures rapid cool-down prior to engine shutdown.

This anti-lag system allows the engine's large throttle opening or bypass to produce a considerable amount of hot high velocity exhaust gas that sustains high turbo-charger speed.

This is achieved with a higher than normal idle speed (2000 to 4000 RPM typ.). The cool-down mode uses a different strategy to produce a large volume of cool exhaust gas for rapid turbo cool-down and it simultaneously controls idle engine speed with the large throttle opening required.

CAUTION

This anti-lag system, like all others, causes considerable heating of engine, exhaust valves, exhaust manifold, turbo-charger and exhaust system. Consideration must be given to the possibility of component damage or possible vehicle fire.

Set-up of the anti-lag system MUST NOT be attempted without monitoring EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE (EGT) in the vicinity of the turbine wheel. A knowledge of the maximum safe working temperature a of the turbo-charger turbine is essential. A turbo tacho and a pressure gauge to measure the turbo compressor outlet pressure are also useful tools to assist in the setup of anti-lag.

Operating Modes

1. Throttle opening/bypass controlled anti-lag, using a mechanical or electro-mechanical throttle opener or bypass. ECU activation of the anti-lag function with dash mounted inhibit switch.

2. ECU controlled throttle opening/bypass using an electro-mechanical throttle opener or bypass valve. Dash mounted switch allows driver selection of and-lag function.

3. Fixed throttle opening with full automatic control by ECU with manual override or manual control of and-lag and cool-down function

Notes:- Modes 1 & 2 do not effectively use the fast cool-down function. Anti-lag action is terminated by excessive engine temperature (> 110 degC)

Mode 3 is the simplest mode to use, since it requires no additional engine mounted hardware (eg: throttle kickers or solenoid controlled by-pass valves). The cool-down mode is also most effective in this mode.

MODE 1.

MODE 2.

MODE 3.

Mode 3 use a fixed large throttle opening (typically 8 to 20%). This modes antilag function uses this large opening, high idle speed (typically 2500 to 400O RPM) and ignition retard to produce a considerable amount of hot high velocity exhaust gas that sustains high turbo-charger speed. The cool-down mode uses a different strategy to produce a much cooler exhaust gas temperature and simultaneously control idle engine speed with this large initial throttle opening, when anti-lag is not active.

Activation.

1. Manual:- Ground anti-lag I/P pin to switch from cool-down to anti-lag mode.

2. Automatic:- Anti-lag activated by engine RPM exceeding 500O RPM and remains active far 15 seconds after RPM falls below 5000RPM.

3. Auto/Manual:- As per automatic mode above but inhibited if Anti-lag I/P not grounded.

ANTI-LAG SETUP

Throttle opening, ignition retard and the resulting anti-lag no-load RPM must be chosen to produce the best compromise between excessive exhaust temperature and good anti-lag action. More throttle requires greater ignition retard to control no-load throttle closed RPM, and results in higher EGT. Anti-lag ignition timing for small capacity 4 valve central spark plug combustion chamber engines should be in range -20 to -30 deg. For large capacity 2 valve engines -2 to -2O deg should suffice. Ignition timing retard should be maintained up to a MAP value as high as possible but must be eliminated before 1 atmosphere is reached to ensure adequate off-boost performance. Below anti-lag RPM normal ignition timing should be restored so that engine torque increases with decreasing RPM in order to stabilize RPM. Additional fuel during and-lag is often required to help control EGT. A value between 10 and 20% extra is usually beneficial. The User defined PWM table functions as the anti-lag ignition offset table 1% = 1 deg retard.

eg:- Anti-lag idle @ 2600 RPM approx. User Define PWM output %(0 to 100)

Load/RPM Example TPS/RPM Example

RPM RPM

LOAD 2400 2600 4000 TPS 2400 2600 4000

97.0 0.0 40.0 50.0 12.0 0.0 40.0 50.0

98.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 15.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Engine idles @ 2600 RPM with 88 to 92 kPa MAP below butterfly with 30 - 40 = -10 deg ignition. Gives 130 to 150 kPa MAP above butterfly.

!!!! IMPORTANT!!!!

1. Irrespective of the actual throttle opening used the ECU must be reset so that the selected open is seen by the ECU as 0% open. Throttle limit learning must be performed each time a new throttle stop setting is set.

2. Before attempting anti-lag set-up it is most important that correct fuel and ignition calibration be achieved for "normal" engine operation.

COOL-DOWN SETUP

The cooldown function produces a stable idle with an exhaust sound similar to that produced by engines fitted with long duration camshafts. This disappears as soon as the engine is laboured at low RPM or loaded at higher RPMs. Spark plugs normally remain clean even during extend periods of cool-down idling. Cooldown MIN RPM and MAX RPM settings are set to values above and below the Desired cooldown idle RPM. These values should be at least 800 RPM apart to prevent idle instability. The cool-down mode MAX THROTTLE setting is usually set to 5% for best drivability.

eg:- Cool-down idle @ 1700 RPM

COOLDOWN MIN RPM - 1400 RPM

COOLDOWN MAX RPM - 2400 RPM

COOLDOWN MAX THROTTLE = 5%.

yeh... thats all :P oh, darK... can i please modify your sig pic and use it? ive been looking for a R34 sig thing for agis!

lots of things are illegal these days...... but take this into account..... have you thought about how brittle the exhaust wheels are on these rb series turbo's been ceramic and all??? they would nearly just explode under the suppen force of the firing of the anti lag .... which means no boost for you......

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...