Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need some advice.

last weekend i was driving and i saw my oil light flickering and the engine started to sound like a diesel engine, so i parked the car and let it cool down and then checked the oil and it was full, so i went home and did a change of oil and filter, started her up and the problem looked like it was fixed, so i took her for a drive and i noticed that when the temp. reached 1/2 it started to do the same thing. My feeling is that the oil pump is on its way out, so as the engine gets warm the pump starts to shut down. Anyone every had this problem? Am i thinking along the correct line or is there something else wrong with the engine? Any help would be good

p.s. its a rb20 single cam engine

Thanks

Edited by who's next
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/
Share on other sites

to take the sump off u can either pull the engine out or if you have access to a hoist support the engine using a special support bar and chain then drop the crossmember off, i know koz i did this myself on my 32 koz it had the same problem but after cleaning out the sump an removing the oil pickup an replacing the gasket it was fine, it only made it easier for me being a mechanic so i could easily drop the crossmember without takin it right out, by which is a total biatch to get back together

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/#findComment-3535648
Share on other sites

I used this opportunity to tell the wife i might need to change my engine and to convert my car to a project car (as i would like to do everything meaning and build up a good strong car), so i went by a guy who brings in used parts from japan, and told him i was interested in going with the rb25det set up. I had my heart set on the neo rb25det, but he told me that engine is trouble and to go with the rb25det with the ignitor. Now i have been searching on the net to see people's experience with both engines, but i have not seen anything bad about the neo. My thinking for going with the neo is that its a newer engine which should = less miles and its rated at 280hp the same as the rb26dett (without the cost of the rb26).

Have any of you guys had a bad experience with the neo?

Which one would you suggest neo or non-neo

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/#findComment-3538146
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I would go with the neo, its 3,000.00 more than the non-neo. I think this guy brings in good parts, i have bought parts from him and so far no problems. So my baby would be out for a few months as i plan to do it like a project car (diff, fmic, suspension etc.) every month i would buy something and put on before the engine goes in, that way i would have a good strong/safe car at the end of the build. would take pics and step by step and post it when she's done.

Thanks again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/#findComment-3540234
Share on other sites

this down in Trinidad and Tobago so that's TTD so the non neo would be 12,000.00TTD and the Neo is 15,000.00TTD, now you could get it for less but this guy brings in good engines and i think its better to put the extra to get a good engine, plus if there are any problems he does not give trould to change the parts. yeah things down in trinidad real expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/#findComment-3553276
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i put a rb25det s1 in my cefiro, whole time i planned to run a neo or even 2j but when it comes down to money you can only do so much.. if you stretch your budget too much you'll end up with a dodgy set-up rather than something similar thats very reliable

s1 or s2 ftw !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197585-a31-problems/#findComment-3567715
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...