Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make:Nissan

Model:Skyline GTS-t

Milage:100500

Transmission:Automatic

Colour:Wine Red

Location:Orange NSW

Complied: Yes

RWC supplied?Can Be Supplied

Currently registered? Till Mid February 2008

Price:$10500 ono

Contact:0418738494

Comments / Modifications: 1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Automatic 100500 Km's Light Modifications Always Serviced every 5000km's with quality Motul Oils. Modifications include GTR style bodykit, Blitz Front mount intercooler, Blitz Pod Filter, Blitz Oil Temp and Boost gauges, Blow off Valve, R33 GTR wheels, Strut Brace, Lowered Springs (King Springs), 2.5 inch Cat Back Exhaust, Stereo System(JVC Head Unit, Schneider Splits front and rear and 2 MTX Subs powered by a Schneider Amp).

Always serviced by Nissan

100k serviced completed at 94000 kms (water pump replaced, radiator reconditioned, thermostat changed, timing belt replaced.)

Never Boosted or Raced.

Used as a Daily Driver for the last 3 and a half years.

All Enquires welcome.

Images:

post-8591-1197683351_thumb.jpg

post-8591-1197683423_thumb.jpg

post-8591-1197683507_thumb.jpg

post-8591-1197683577_thumb.jpg

post-8591-1197683672_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197700-fs-r32-gts-t-auto-1992/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...