Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Trying to find a R33 GTR to buy but cant find one in sa that apeals to me... but in queensland there is one that looks like what im after, even down to the colour and price (shit body kit on it tho!! lol)... Its just what has to be done to get rego on it here in SA? does it have to go through a full regency inspection?

The mods are

Garrett 400HP Turbo GT2860R x 2.

Sard 650CC injectors,

high volume Nismo Fuel Pump,

CES Ceramic coated dump pipes and secondary exhaust

80mm system with high flow CAT

Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller,

NI Water Pump.

Tomei Poncams Type "B" and Tomei adjustable timing gears

clear timing gear cover,

GFB Bleed Valve,

Tein Super Street fully adjustable suspension with EDC controller for on the move electronic adjustment.

So the defectable things would be the turbos, Apexi power fc, tein suspension... that all?

Id have top change that to get redgo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197949-buying-interstate/
Share on other sites

Have bought a few cars including my GTR interstate.... you must take it for an identity check only. (check vin/engine no to see if stolen)

Go to sturt inspection depot... will be easier than regency.

However if they see any obvious major defect they will send you to regency for full inspection.

Have bought a few cars including my GTR interstate.... you must take it for an identity check only. (check vin/engine no to see if stolen)

Go to sturt inspection depot... will be easier than regency.

However if they see any obvious major defect they will send you to regency for full inspection.

so i dont even need to take it to regency?

when you say major defects, on that list is that just suspension and if i disconnect the power fc handcontrol that would be ok?

apart from that?

Going to the sturt shop is the same as going through the engine check section at regency. All the do is check the vehicle complies with the import thingo (plate) and the engine numbers match etc.

If u do get defected (when i should say) u will need to take off the AM parts anyway-

Garrett 400HP Turbo GT2860R x 2. - come off

Sard 650CC injectors, - come off

high volume Nismo Fuel Pump, -ok (IF its internally mounted)

CES Ceramic coated dump pipes and secondary exhaust - ok

80mm system with high flow CAT - ok (providing its less than the required Db)

Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller, - out (der)

NI Water Pump.- ok

Tomei Poncams Type "B" and Tomei adjustable timing gears - ok (as long as the cam gears are covered)

clear timing gear cover, -covers the last point ie get rid of it if u dont want an instant defect regardless...

GFB Bleed Valve, - off (its altering boost)

Tein Super Street fully adjustable suspension with EDC controller for on the move electronic adjustment. - off

Basically they frown on anything that isnt std. So if yer buying the car fer all the bits, and end up taking them off later, is it worth the extra?

They can be engineered, but it will cost, and once again regency can say no they dont like it anyway (law unto themselves) and dont have to comply with any engineers report.

Edited by Bl4cK32
Going to the sturt shop is the same as going through the engine check section at regency. All the do is check the vehicle complies with the import thingo (plate) and the engine numbers match etc.

If u do get defected (when i should say) u will need to take off the AM parts anyway-

Garrett 400HP Turbo GT2860R x 2. - come off

Sard 650CC injectors, - come off

high volume Nismo Fuel Pump, -ok (IF its internally mounted)

CES Ceramic coated dump pipes and secondary exhaust - ok

80mm system with high flow CAT - ok (providing its less than the required Db)

Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller, - out (der)

NI Water Pump.- ok

Tomei Poncams Type "B" and Tomei adjustable timing gears - ok (as long as the cam gears are covered)

clear timing gear cover, -covers the last point ie get rid of it if u dont want an instant defect regardless...

GFB Bleed Valve, - off (its altering boost)

Tein Super Street fully adjustable suspension with EDC controller for on the move electronic adjustment. - off

Basically they frown on anything that isnt std. So if yer buying the car fer all the bits, and end up taking them off later, is it worth the extra?

They can be engineered, but it will cost, and once again regency can say no they dont like it anyway (law unto themselves) and dont have to comply with any engineers report.

OK thanks for that.....

But what would be needed to be removed for the very first check to get redgo here?

anything that is an obvious defect...Nothing that would make them considering calling u back >_<

Probably just keep the sus jacked up, swap the clear cover, and try hide the turbos under some heat shield and u should be in and out.

cheers for the advice!

wish it wasnt in Queensland!!! id be driving if it was in melb!

Have bought a few cars including my GTR interstate.... you must take it for an identity check only. (check vin/engine no to see if stolen)

Go to sturt inspection depot... will be easier than regency.

However if they see any obvious major defect they will send you to regency for full inspection.

CORRECT..........and the things that stand out the most are black windows, too loud and too low.....other than that make sure your pods are secured because they sometimes shake them.

my dear Adam

why dont u try to get a stock 33 GTR

at least u know it hasn't been thrashed

go through Regency, then mod what u want... the right way

IMO

honestly for 2 reasons.

1 stock can still be thrashed!

2 cheaper to buy one with things done to it already then out lay yourself and its easier to do it that way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...