Jump to content
SAU Community

Navman Or Tomtom?

road_racer

By road_racer,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I've never used a navman to compare but I am very happy with my tomtom.

had some problems in the maps (including it telling me to jump off the hume hwy at an overpass) but I think they all run the same maps

tomtom is easy and quick use, and has enough voices that i could choose one that didn't shit me. one problem is you must get the right suburb to grab a street - if you have the wrong suburb you will never get it. Eg Ryde is not enough you need West Ryde.

GazzaR Explorer

GazzaR

Posted
Posted

i had navman and now a tomtom they both have their good and bad points. main ones i have are

on the tomtom i cant seem to search for a road first have to give the suburb first

tomtom you can tell it to pick alternate route

navman has speed alert

tomtom dont display street number as you drive

tomtom you can put on celebrity voices

i found the poi not as good as navman

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
navman has speed alert

The new TomTom Go720 has speed alert now (not sure about the lower models). And speed / red light camera POI warnings.

I have a Go500. One of the more frustrating things is that sometimes, after entering the suburb and then the street...it sends you to the wrong street in the wrong suburb (even if it has the right suburb in brackets).

If you search for a cross street and then add your desired street as a crossing, it finds it.

f**king stupid.

The Go720 I got my old man for his birthday seems to be a lot better though. Faster to boot and acquire a location, better POI's. Since my Go500 is now a little broken, I might get a 720 or a One XL

road_racer Apprentice

road_racer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How much at the Go720 going for at the moment? So it notifys you when there's a speed camera and a red light , that was one of the things i was looking for but thought i would have to get a navman , ive been doing alot of research and alot of people are saying the navmans seem to come back into the shop more then any other gps system and that they freeze alot..

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

look at Garmin as well.

You can plan your next days jobs and it will put them in most obvious order so you don't have to double back and forth etc.

my neighbour is a courier and he bought on of these.. he loves it.

I also have a garmin but I only use it for usual directions..

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
How much at the Go720 going for at the moment?

This is the cheapest I've seen.

Its got a lot of funky features (Bluetooth handsfree, can store MP3s so you can play them in-car...I think it transmits FM or something so you can pick it up with your stereo, it can display SMS' on screen and read them to you) which is why I ended up getting this for my old man. The screen's also a really nice, big, size.

I like the TomTom when I bought my GPS as the others were slower, had a less intuitive menu, and/or a smaller screen, but I haven't looked since I bought my Go500 a few years ago.

road_racer Apprentice

road_racer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The 910's go for around 1,000$ mark don't have that at the moment so i guess i might take a closer look at the model below , the reason i asked this question is because alot of people i know told me navman's were freezing on them and theyve had nothing but bad problems with it..

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I got the 910 its a good unit. 20gb hard drive to store mp3s etc. was expensive but good toy

it reads sms using text to speech, same way it reads street names. when it arrives it asks if you want the sms read out.

lost_S13 Apprentice

lost_S13

Posted
Posted

road racer, id be very hesitant about a navman. I work for harvey norman as a computer geek and the amount of problems i get with the new navmans i get are huge. Tom tom arent as bad as that but the best sat nav you can get are the garmin range, though they are more expensive. If you are familiar with the company GME Electrophone (they make the best UHF 2-way radios) they are garmin.

Just my input though, hope i could help

Radion Community Regular

Radion

Posted
Posted

I have tomtom and its great. When you are buying a GPS its very important to check what GPS chipset it has. The best chip at at the moment is the SiRFstar III. There are a few chipsets that take very long to locate the satellites and loose signal when in a tunnel or in the city. Im pretty sure that most of the tomtom units have the SiRFstar III. Im not sure about navman.

-Phil

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

I've got a navman icn-520 .. absolutely love it.

My brother has tomtom running on his hp pda with an ebay gps receiver.. he loves that too.. i find it a little better in customising voices, poi etc. But the navman has it (in my opinion) in terms of ease of use and interface. but that's subjective. Both very strong competitors.. i'd take either of them over any other brand.

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted
If you are familiar with the company GME Electrophone (they make the best UHF 2-way radios) they are garmin.

Not quite true, GME Electrophone are Australia distributors of Garmin, but Garmin is a company in its own right.

In my old job I dealt (and played) with Garmins all the time. they are the best on the market... but they are generally a little dearer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...