Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before I buy my 19x8.5 and 19x9.5's does anyone know if they are legal in Western Australia? I know everyone puts them on but if their legal or not im just clueless. Their going on a R34GT.

Reason for me stressin is incase im in a accident and insurance wont cover anything i heard?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198322-are-these-rims-legal/
Share on other sites

From WA DPI:

Alternative road wheels

Alternative road wheels are permitted under the following conditions :

Rim width must not exceed the maximum rim width specified by the manufacturer by more than 25mm (1") (for passenger vehicles manufactured after 1st January 1973, the manufacturers rim width shall be taken as that specified on the tyre placard).

In any event, rim width shall not exceed 177.8 mm (7") unless specified by the manufacturer as standard equipment for the vehicle in question. No increase in rim width is permitted for vehicles fitted with original equipment rims in excess of 177.8 mm (7") width.

The wheel is contained completely within the body work of the vehicle which includes acceptable flares.

The wheel does not foul any part of the body or suspension under all conditions of travel

The vehicle handling is not impaired in any way.

The tyre to rim fitment must be in accordance with the Tyre and Rim Association Manual.

Rim diameters must be the same as specified by the manufacturer.

The wheel must be one designed for use with the vehicle with respect to bolt pitch circle and wheel nut tapers

The track must not be increased by more than 25mm (1") over the maximum specified by the manufacturer.etc.

All wheels must be the same size, profile and bolt pattern.

Vehicles required to comply with Australian Design Rule 24, "Tyre & Rim Selection" must continue to comply with this Design Rule (contact the Department of Transport and Regional Services for more details).

The fitment of so called "plus one" and "plus two" and tyres is acceptable providing :

the overall diameter of the large rims fitted with the lower profile tyres do not exceed the overall diameter

all tyres and rims fitted to the vehicle are of the same size and profile

with the exemption of item (f), the tyres and rims are in conformity with the requirements specified above in items (a) to (j).

Reducing the wheel track less than the original manufacturers specification is not permitted, as this may reduce vehicle stability.

So on your GTT - technically no on a number of fronts.

the law actually changed at the start of the year.

you are allowed up to 1.3x the largest factory width (without extending the track over 25mm, and protruding from the guards), and you are allowed any diameter as long as the rolling diameter does not change

however you are not allowed staggered sizes unless it was a factory option, then you can go 1.3x whatever the front has at the front, and 1.3x whatever the rear has at the rear.

so unless you own a supra or a porsche, you cant use those rims...legally :D

best bet is to email the dpi themselves and wait til u get a reply from them about it

i had the same issue with cops trying to sticker me for pod filters til i showed them the dpi email stating that they are legal

[email protected] < email addy

Customer Contact Centre on 13 11 56 (within WA) or 08 9427 6404 (outside WA). <phone

Edited by gazza750
+1 on the uglyness of the wheels. They would suit the old school type of cars, but if that's what you want then go for it. You'll be the one driving it around all day long. Not us.

hmm not sure whats goin on here.. i started the topic and those arent my rims, maybe that guy had same problem? the rims im about to purchase are 19x8.5 and 19x9.5, his look fatter. but yeh i agree with everyone, pretty munted wheels. As for all the advice i might give the dpi an email as well cheers Gary!

hmm not sure whats goin on here.. i started the topic and those arent my rims, maybe that guy had same problem? the rims im about to purchase are 19x8.5 and 19x9.5, his look fatter. but yeh i agree with everyone, pretty munted wheels. As for all the advice i might give the dpi an email as well cheers Gary!

Okay, I see what's happened. When people were asking for pictures, they were asking for yours (MellowYellow's), but out of nowhere full house turned up and posted pictures of his wheels (or some other person's wheels) and people just assumed they were yours (MellowYellow).

I think that's what happened. Ah who cares. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...