Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Roy

are you sure your not expecting too much from std gear?

Nah im not expecting too much. Right now with a 'repaired' Master Cylinder when approaching lights if i pump the pedal softly twice it is then rock hard straight away and the brakes are absolutely fantastic, minimal pedal action required for maximum stopping its great (exactly what I expected with the brake gear I have, including braided lines).

If I don't pump the pedal twice before applying full pressure the pedal goes about 1/2 way down before good pressure is applied. After I have done 3-4 fairly hard stops (ie; 80km/h -> 30km/h) the pedal goes all the way to the floor before any pressure at all is applied (the pedal is still firm but not until its alllll the way to the floor).

If the master cylinder has new seal, piston/bore honed etc etc, then it shoudl be as good as new...shouldnt it?

Well thats exactly what I thought too but obviously thats not how it works. I'm very tempted to take the car to the place where I purchased the DBA4000 Rotors from just to explain my situation and get a 2nd opinion. (My contact their is actually a customer of the company I work for so he treats me right and I treat him right :) ). With the amount of money I have spent on this setup im certainly not happy with the performance yet.

Do you have any friends with an R33, do their cars stop the same

Id offer you a go in my car, im only at Windsor, but its an R32. Still i think you and i have effectively the same setup now.

R33 & R32 use the same diam pistons for front and rear calipers, they have the same diam rear rotor, but the R32 uses a 25.4mm vs R33 23.8 piston in the master cylinder

... and we both have aftermarket front rotors... so perhaps we have more in common then youd first think.

Time for a 2nd opinion

Yeah they are about 1km around the corner. Had a friend that went there at the beginning of the year and they didnt fix something correctly and well that ended with my mates Dato 1600's rear wheel falling off at 60km/h ripped the rear guard off and destroying his suspension (that was a nite i'll never forget, especially when at 2am in the morning no tilt trays or tow trucks want to help out) so i've sorta kept away from that place.

Pink slip today then maybe tomorrow arvo i'll get a 2nd opinion and then either order the genuine nissan master cylinder from japan or... do what the 2nd opinion person says.

Ben, it's possible that the master cylinder needs bleeding again. Apparently they are a real bitch to get all of the air out of, unlike the brake lines which is quite easy. Maybe give that another few goes before you start replacing it.

I'm just thinking that if there was a fault in there it should make your brakes crap all the time, not just before you pump them up a bit. But I'm no expert, just taking a stab.

If your recycling bottle and bleeder tube are clean then I don't see why not. I guess they don't have to be surgically clean, just as clean or cleaner than the underside of your master cylinder cap :)

I would buy another bottle to have on hand anyway just in case you lose some fluid or it needs topping up again. But don't break the seal on it until you actually need it (coz you'll have to throw the excess out anyway once it's opened).

looking stock and being ADR legal are different man.

i for one would stick to adr stuff. laws are there for a reason and brakes are probably one of the most important things

i've got dot3 lines ATM... that's what the japs did in Japan, and even race brakes here in Melb said it was a very odd, yet interesting design... backyard Jap workshops! lol!

anywas, take it to race brakes, you know it'll get done right the first time even if you spend a few extra bob.

I think it only costs about $50 to get lines approved, but I don't know if it has to be done by the manufacturer or if any Joe Blow can come in off the street and get it done. You might need to be the manufacturer and buy an expensive licence before you can do the $50 testing.

dude braided lines are going to take a shitload more pressure than is required of them. laws are there not to stop you making braided lines, but to stop you making non approved lines. eg to stop fools making crap quality hoses out of poor quality rubber or similar.

jap tyres arnt legal when they come in on your car, becuse theyre not approved. bridgestone etc.. still not dot/adr

the markup is huge from brake shops, depends how much your willing to pay i suppose. i dont think brake shops can make adr approved ones can they? i thought goodrich were the only company that make them

rob

Originally posted by JimX

it's possible that the master cylinder needs bleeding again

Just went spoke to my "Better Brakes" down at the local work shop during my lunch break.... Told him my recent upgrades and the problem im experiencing and he suggested a getting my Master Cylinder rebuilt with a "stainless steel sleeve".

RaceBrakes only replaced the seals etc but did not touch the Cylinder shaft (??) afaik. BB explained that the amount of pressure in the cylinder shaft can be well over 250 bar and with all the heat and pressure i've generated it could have damaged this.

He said their is absolutely no need to get a brand new Master as all that can be damaged is this shaft. To re-sleeve the shaft they drill it out and then fit it with a stainless steel shaft and make it all perfectly smooth again. He said the aluminium can flex and bow and allow pressure past where the stainless steal can't.

To do this means 3 days off the road (master gets sent into the city to be done) and about ~$260. (compared with ~$500ish for a brand new genuine nissan master cylinder).

...the plot thickens...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...